If you don't own a rack, best go to this crag with someone who does. The best acess to this crag is from Pigeon Bay, via Hilltop. The crag is a short walk south from the stock yards on Old Pigeon Bay Rd. After crossing the fence, follow stock tracks well below the crag until the bush thins then pick your way up to the crag. The rock here is pretty clean and of good quality but there are many freestanding or loose blocks along the tp of the crag.Routes are rather short, 12 -15m at best. The easiest descent is off the left end. The crag faces south which is bad news for winter and great for summer. There are about 30 lines, many of them cracks. Look for ***Death by Blocklets(22). Permission is needed for large groups. More detailed information can be found in South Island Rock(2004 edition) or Rock Delux.
A great little crag for crack addicts.