On "The Castle", facing into the gorse infested gulley is a prominent hand crack in a corner, with a long thin flake to the left. Start a couple of meters to the right and traverse to the crack to avoid the worst of the gorse.
Use bridging, face holds and the crack. climbing can be sustained and a little run out unless you are efficent with placing gear. There is a rest at the ledge just under the top if you need it, then it's multipal choice to finish the last couple of meters.
Save some small/medium nuts to rig an anchor. Creativity is required because all thats available is a rather loose pile of rock. Another option is to sling the pile, this would require about 8m of webbing. There are rope slings in place, they may have been there 12 to 18 months to date. You need to use your own judgment about these.
To get off the top without leaving gear behind, rap from the existing swathe of rope slings( a new rapid link has been added for your convenence) or scramble down the gully at the back of the climb. Some bush bashing may be required for this exit.
Submitted by: socialclimber on 2005-03-28
Route ID: 65043