This is probably the best cliff on Dartmoor, maybe even in Devon. Almost 200 feet tall and almost vertical, it has superb climbs especially in the lower grades, yet not without difficulty. The climbing is good on sound, well protected rock. The routes are on a series of buttresses ovewrlooking the River Plym, with over 100 routes. At around 400 feet above sea level, it is a sheltered and sensible area if the weather is questionable. Watch for midges in the spring and summer though.
|Nearest town or city:||Plymouth|
|Directions:||OS 202 GR SX 538 638 Alt. 180m
5 miles NNW of A38 at Plymouth. Take the A386 towards Yelverton and after 3 miles turn right to Bickleigh, go through the village and turn left, following the signs to Shaugh Prior. After a mile and a half you will cross a bridge, park on the right. Cross back over the river and follow a path up the left side to reach the crag after about a half mile.
|Latitude, Longitude:||50.45519, -4.05977|
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Year|
|SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes.||Rating||Route||Difficulty||Ascents|
|0||a silken thread||5.10a||0|