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Routes : Europe : England : Peak District : Stoney Middleton (OS)

Stoney Middleton (OS)

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About Stoney Middleton (OS):

Without a doubt one of the greatest crags in Britain (???). Over 200 routes, with over 150 Extremes, and some great VS and HVS lines. South-facing (warm) and 100-200 ft. tall. If you think you are solid in a grade, come to Stoney and come back to Earth. The trade routes on this limestone cliff can get rather polished, so bring chalk and sticky boots, and maybe a brush, and don't bring a big ego!

Without a doubt one the most polished crags Britain. Quarried limestone that has been climbed on for years but despite the high traffic bits still fall off in some places. Stony has lots of history which points to the poverty of English climbing.

If you get over the polish there are some good routes: Scoop Wall (E1 5b), Wall of Bubbles (E2 6a), Wee Doris (E3 5c), Cabbage Crack (E3 6a), Oliver (E4 5c), Circe (E4 6a) are some of the best.
Nearest town or city: Bakewell
Directions: OS 119 GR SK 220 758 Alt. 184m
4.5 miles north of Bakewell. Go up the hill on the A261, then B6001 to Calver, then left on A623 to Stoney Middleton. Park across from the gas station. The crag is on the right side of the valley, about half a mile long, and the other side is a working quarry.
Latitude, Longitude: 53.27845, -1.67004
Access Issues:
Camping:
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Lifetime

Routes

SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
35 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Aurora 5.9 1
67 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Sin 5.9 2
68 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Glory Road 5.8 1
74 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Anything Corner 5.8 1
79 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Augean 5.9 1
81 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Fe Fi Fo Fum 5.10a 2
88 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Wallop 5.7 2
99 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Golden Gate 5.10a 1
105 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Medusa 5.10c 1
113 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Thrutch 5.10a 1
116 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Cointreau 5.10a 2
120 Average Rating = 4.00/5 minus 10 5.10a 2
123 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Au Gratin 5.7 1
125 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Parachute 5.8 2
127 Average Rating = 4.00/5 St Peter 5.10d 2
129 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Gabriel 5.9 1
130 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Pearly Gate 5.9 1
132 Average Rating = 3.00/5 White Knight 5.3 1
139 Average Rating = 2.00/5 Lost Horizon 5.3 1
141 Average Rating = 2.00/5 Horizon 5.6 1
149 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Asparagus 5.8 1
151 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Padme 5.10a 3
159 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Green Crack 5.9 1