Bleau : an overview (do not add routes here)
About Bleau : an overview (do not add routes here):
updated Nov. 28, 2006
Please, add pictures and circuits in the appropriate areas : Trois-Pignons, Fontainebleau, Larchant, Nemours, Malesherbes-Buthiers, or "far-west". See below for the location of these areas and their respective sections... Thank you!
Fontainebleau is a city located 65 km southeast from Paris (1 hour by car), where stands a chateau which was the hunting house for the Kings of France and their reigning guests coming from the whole Europe. There were big game hunting in the huge forests surrounding this city, the Forêt de Fontainebleau, which the climbers call Bleau. This forest is 20,000 ha (bit less than 100 sq miles). The Forest is mainly made of oaks, white birches, beeches, and pine trees too. These species grow on a fine sandy soil and subsoil coming from the erosion of the sandstone, which explain the gently reputation of Bleau : little exposed boulders with rarely dangerous falls… which is not completely true! Besides Fontainebleau (middle east), the main cities in the area are Barbizon (north west), Milly-la-Forêt (west) and Nemours (south).
How is the rock? Perfect! The boulders are made of sandstone. All kinds of problems are available: technical slab and face climbs, overhangs and roofs. All kinds of holds are present from micro crimpers to head sized huecos, but the most characteristic are the smooth, steeply sloping pieces of rock that can only be identified because of the chalk. How high are the boulders? Usually between 6' and 12', but sometimes more than 30' for which you could need a rope (by example at La Dame Jouanne). Do you want a better idea? Go see the pictures on rc.com or in your favorite guidebook or paper magazine.
The grades? Puzzling... that's the way bouldering is! The history of climbing in Bleau is very old and people who got there were simply training for the mountaineering season in the Alps. For that purpose they created circuits through the Forest, with dozens of boulders in each of them for a total height which was supposed to be a good training for the Alps. The grades were supposed to match the Alpine grades, and the Bleau scale is derived from the Welzenbach scale... but harder!
What about the Vermin scale? All the boulders from F2a to F5a can be considered to be V0... but the difference of difficulty between a 2a and a 5a is amazing as you will notice it fast once in the Forest...So don't be to pretentious at the beginning.
What is the best season to climb in Bleau? Good question! The rock has much more grip when cool and dry. So dry winter and dry spring are perfect (dry fall is seldom!) : hard core climbers prefer winter, I prefer spring, when the weather is fair and the forest is in full rebirth. Avoid summer when your hands are all wet.
Avoid wednesdays (children and teachers can invade Bleau), avoid sundays (and saturdays) because families invade the forest! According to the location, the rock can dry fast or slow… (see guides and web links for further informations).
The easiest way to get to Bleau is to drive a car. From Paris, go south on highway A6 (A6 crosses the forest on its western part), and take one of the following exits : from #13 (Cély) to #16 (Nemours). See specific areas for more road details.
You could also take the train (stations of Bois-le-Roi or Fontainebleau-Avon from Paris Gare-de-Lyon), then ride a bicycle, but I don't know if it's worth since it's not easy to ride on the sandy trails of the forest). For timetables, google "SNCF + timetable".
Enter "Paris" as Départ and "Fontainebleau" or "Bois-le-Roi" as Arrivée, then choose the appropriate day and times... as usual. Or ask at an office in Gare de Lyon if people are not on strike!!!
For the Forêt Domaniale des Trois-Pignons, I would choose the station of Fontainebleau - Avon or take the car.
Now that I have exposed the localisation of Bleau, I have to say that this huge fores is not single but complex… The areas are disseminated among the sandy valleys and plains of the forest, which make difficult for foreigners (= climbers who don't spend their lives in Bleau!) to navigate in it! The best thing to do is to buy the IGN blue map TOP25 number 2417-OT. (scale 1:25,000 or 1 centimeter = 250 meters). Then you can approach the paradise.
North, between Barbizon, Fontainebleau and Bois-le-Roi, in the State Forest of Fontainebleau are Rocher-Canon, Cuvier, Rocher Saint-Germain, and Apremont.
West of Fontainebleau and east of Arbonne, always in the State Forest of Fontainebleau are Franchard-Cuisinière, Isatis, Les Sablons, Hautes-Plaines, le Rocher des Demoiselles....
In the area of Milly-la-Forêt, Noisy-sur-Ecole, Arbonne-la-Forêt and the highway A6 is the Forêt Domaniale des Trois-Pignons which provides the highest concentration of boulders : Canche aux Merciers, Le Cul du Chien, Bois-Rond, le 95.2, le 91.1, le Potala, le Diplodoccus... and so many others...
More south, northwest of Nemours, in the State Forest of Larchant, are La Dame Jouanne, Le Maunoury, L'Eléphant.
Some web links?
Grimporama In French. A classical web site with many info. Few online topos. Interesting geological considerations.
Bleau.info A heavy site in French, English and Dutch, made by Dutch and French climbers. Very complete. Many topos, pictures, videos. Requires a heavy internet connection.
7aBleau A site in French dedicated to boulders harder than F7a.
Escalade Fontainebleau In French. Many circuits. Over 50 videos.
Bleau! The personal site of Jo Montchaussé who writes topos too. Many pictures of hard problems.
Zebloc Info on Bleau and other bouldering areas in France and elsewhere.
What is forbidden in Bleau? To make fires (except in camping areas), to cut trees or just branches or even dead wood, to collect mushrooms, lichens, to have your animals unleashed (well I suppose you won't travel oversea with a dog!), to use radios, to park you vehicle close to a fence (emergency access for firemen and forest guards), to camp or just sleep overnight in the forest.
Besides climbing there are many other things to do : walk, bike or ride horse-back in the woods, look at art in Barbizon or enjoy the old towns and palace of Fontainebleau and Moret. There's also a wonderful museum for Prehistory in Nemours.
Thanks for having read this intro. Thomas Ribière.
|Nearest town or city:||Fontainebleau|
see specific areas
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Lifetime|
Forum Discussions (10 posts)
|Fontainebleau Food||tmabbot||1||Aug 08 2016, 7:33 AM|
|free camping?||harryc||0||May 20 2008, 1:58 PM|
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|Bleau sem.du 24 mars/march 24th-29 in bleau||nepasavaler||1||Jan 27 2005, 1:49 AM|
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