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Eperon Frendo - Frendo Spur - AD

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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(Trad) Snow
G
A small rock rack with cams to 2 1/2", 4-6 ice screws.
3200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 WI3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

(1200 m / 5c max / 70-85 max of ice) A superb line up the face below and left of the telepherique.

Submitted by: adeptus on 2008-01-14
Views: 1670
Route ID: 41218

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5 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 WI3 D
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: glahhg on 2009-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars scary

Did this over 2 days with Kostas and Scotty, as our first route in Chamonix.

Bivied at a snow-notch about 4-5 pitches below the snow-crest because of some slower moving Brits ahead of us (who bailed in the morning due to dropped crampons).

It had just dumped a few days before we got on it... lots of sketchy snow-covered rock. Climbed almost the whole thing in crampons.

The traverse right under the rognon had some terrible ice with terrible pro and terrible belays. Solid water ice after that.

Topped out to catch the last cable car with about 30 seconds to spare.

Added: 2009-08-12

Ratings
  Difficulty AD
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JohnCook on 2006-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars led

Started from bivi just on first light, perty of three (wrong! takes too long) Effectively solo, only using rope occasionally on rock section. Then on snow roped, and sometimes climbed together, sometimes belayed. The'snow' arete was bare and the final snow field was also bare ice. (wish we'd taken the buttress option). The trek up the arete to the cable car was ankle deep in soft slushy snow mixed with straw! A great route but would be better in a snowier season. Good gear, good rock, but a push for a three party to finish before last car down to bar and several much needed beers.

Added: 2007-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: uasunflower on 2006-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-06-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: adnix on 2005-07-27 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A very good route. We simulclimbed all but three pitches in 7h.

Added: 2005-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: edge on 1985-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Beautiful route! 13 hours from tent at the Plan des Aiguilles to the summit ridge. Descent via telepherique (after a few beers)...

Added: 1985-08-09