Routes : Europe : France : 07- Alps : Chamonix and Mont Blanc area ALPINE CLIMBS : Le Brévent (AR) : Le Brevent South East face : Voie "Frison-Roche"
PreviousVoie "Frison-Roche" - 5.10a
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Good bolts throughout so take 12 quick draws, 50m rope and a helmet to fend off dropped sandwiches a
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Description:
This is a magnificent six pitch route that takes on the South East face. Start early to avoid crowds; it serves as a trade route for the French Guides. The final pitch tops out just to the right of the cable car station. Approach as for the South East face. Belay at the two bolts at the end of the small path. Pitch 1 (6a) - Climb the arête to the left of the small gully until you reach a series of steep short walls. Climb these direct and then walk for 8m along broken ground until you reach belay bolts at the base of the face ahead. Pitch 2 (5b) - This is a rising traverse rightwards which climbs over some loose terrain, take care. Belay at two bolts on a narrow ledge. Pitch 3 (5c) - Climb the steep wall behind the belay stance and finish up a corner to the right. Belay on top of a pedestal at two bolts. Pitch 4 (6a) - This is the crux pitch. Start by traversing right round the corner onto delicate face climbing, follow this up to the obvious corner 15m above. Layback up the corner (hard) past three bolts to a good ledge above. Belay here at two bolts. Pitch 5 (linking pitch) - Walk round the corner to the left until you reach the base of a huge open book corner. Belay here. You will walk past an alternative finish to the route which takes on the wall behind the belay stance at 7a. Hmm...not so good. Pitch 6 (5c) - This pitch is what you have been waiting for. It is the most amazing open book (dihedral for our yank friends). The cenotaph corner of the Alps. Anyway climb it to the top and belay at two bolts just back from the edge. If the route is not busy (which it always is) then it would be well worth abseiling down and doing the pitch on its own if you’re pushed for time. Word of warning - Be sure to leave enough time to get back to the top in time for the last cable car down. We didn't and so had to descend the 2500m on foot. Not nice. Great on a mountain bike though. You could perhaps combine the two activities in a day. But don't chain your bikes to the belay bolts at the top as the frenchies might get a bit pissed off. References: Crag Climbs in Chamonix – Fancois Burnier, Dominique Potard
Submitted by: tobyhaughey on 2004-01-22
Views: 1507
Route ID: 47577
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3 Ascents Recorded
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| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Belaying from the 'Ferique
Sunny days and nice safe bolts every few meters.
Added: 2007-02-09
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Ascent Note
First Route I ever did in Chamonix...also the best sport climb I have ever done.
Added: 2005-05-26
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
Good old andrew come out to see me and we did it together. Crowded climb though.
Added: 2003-07-10
