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Éperon Gousseault -

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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First Ascent: 28. July 2002: Ivano Ghirardini (France) and Rahel Maria Liu (Germany)

Éperon Gousseault is a very logical route through the SW-face of Mont Maudit (Pointe Mieulet), which consists mainly of a 300 m high rock spur. It ends on the NW-ridge of Mont Maudit.

The route got its name in rememberance of the mountainguide Gousseault from Provence (France), who died in 1971 at the age of 24 during the attempt of a new route throught the northface of Grandes Jorasses.

Ascent description:

Éperon Gousseault has altogether 14 pitches: 1st pitch: Snow-/Ice climbing of about 45° to 50° 2nd pitch: Rock climbing UIAA grade IV 3rd pitch: Rock climbing to grade V 4th to 14th pitch: Mostly rock climbing grade III. In the upper part also some snow-/ice climbing to 50°, when you traverse the snow-/ice couloir on the right of the rock spur.

Follow always the ridge of the rock spur straight on, till you reach the NW-ridge of Mont Maudit on about 4315m, which you follow to Col du Mont Maudit (easy rock climbing of about grade II, some passages III).


Either via the normal route of Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul to Aiguille du Midi or via Mont Blanc


Opening of this route on July 28, 2002

Submitted by: rahel on 2003-01-01
Views: 457
Route ID: 29811

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: rahel on 2002-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

<li>Great and logical route in a very famous place, just opposite to Mont Blanc.</li>
<li>Very recommendable!!</li>
<li>We opened this route. It was our first attempt.</li>
<li>We made 2 very nice bivouacs on Col de la Brenva on 4303m.</li>
<li>Attention: Try this route only, when the weather conditions are perfect!! There are no possibilities for an easy retreat! People died already on Col de la Brenva in due to bad weather! And be well acclimatised! Otherwise, you won't have fun even during the bivouacs in this height!</li>

Witnessed by: Ivano Ghirardini
Added: 2002-07-28