Céüse… What a famous French cliff… Even overseas. Thanks to Chris Sharma. Céüse is a limestone cliff located in the pré-Alpes, near the city of Gap, in the department of Hautes-Alpes. Its history starts in the mid-70's. The main openers were Eric Fossard, Joël Feuillassier, Pierre Isoard and others like Philippe Macle and JC Lafaille or Patrick Edlinger... Biographie, 9a, was first seen in the early 80's, but then it remained just a project…
Facing east south and west, 3 kilometres long, you can climb there almost anytime of the year, even in summer. In winter, you can climb in the sun, looking at snowy mountains. Spring is magnifique. Summer can very hot, but sometimes a fleece will be necessary! Fall is very dry. The top of the cliff reaches 2016 m (6000 feet or so).
The limestone (urgonian limestone for the one who appreciate geology) is of excellent quality, excellent friction, providing more than 250 routes on slabs and in overhangs too. Very few routes have been modified by the hand of the man.
Over 250 sport climbing routes, well equipped, from 40 to 120 meters high and one to 6 pitches. On some areas (Grande Face) friends and nuts might be useful… There's also a bouldering area at the bottom of the cliff, called Céüsette. And a Via Ferrata in the section "Un pont sur l'infini"!
The other main character of this crag is the long walking access to go from the raod to the bottom of the cliff : at least 45 minutes walking up from the road up to 90 minutes…
Camping Les Guérins, dedicated to the climbing community. Project of a cave in a barn…
Bivouac possible on the bottom of the cliff. But don't light any fire, don't drink the water from the waterfalls due to the herds on top of the mountain. Burry your $#!&! Take your own water!!!
Endangered bird species
Buy "Grimper dans les Hautes-Alpes" (Céüse, Dévoluy…), 20€.
Vertical #90, July 1996, page 32.
Grimper #8S, 1995.
Grimper #56H, summer 2001, page 24.
Roc'n'Wall #1, July 1995, pages 42-54.
nouveau Vertical #27, September 2002, pages 30-40.
Web sites :
Climbing gym : 5ème dimension à Gap (tel : 04.92.52.29.95) See the gyms in the data base.
|Nearest town or city:||Gap|
From Gap, drive west on road CD 994 direction Veynes. At La Freissinouse, take CD 19 south direction Sigoyer. In Sigoyer, go west on CD 219 to the Col des Guérins (pass, elevation 1312 m), park your car at the pass or on the right before a hut.
From Lyon, take the highway southeast to Grenoble then road N85 south to Gap. From Marseille and Aix-en-Provence, take highway A51 northeast to Sisteron then road N85 north to Gap.
|Latitude, Longitude:||44.49846, 5.94772|
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Year|
Forum Discussions (10 posts)
|Céüse problems||thomasribiere||0||Oct 10 2007, 2:55 AM|
|Céüze Clean and Climb||thomasribiere||0||Aug 03 2005, 10:39 AM|
|Céüse Alert||thomasribiere||1||May 16 2005, 2:08 AM|
|Ceuse scene||jcinco||2||Feb 27 2005, 11:44 AM|
|ceuse question: climbing style||yevquest||5||Nov 23 2004, 7:33 AM|
|how can i get to ceuse from paris||daniel_039||6||Aug 05 2004, 1:14 AM|
|Patxi Usobiaga repeats realization||james_climber||12||Aug 05 2004, 5:16 AM|
|Patxi Usobiaga repeats Realization||thinksinpictures||12||Aug 07 2004, 1:35 PM|
|Céüse (France) updated||thomasribiere||1||Feb 13 2003, 1:40 PM|
|Sharma Sends Biographie Extension, Grade 5.15a?||fiend||1||Aug 07 2001, 8:13 PM|