- 01) Rolling Stones (0)
- 02) Murs de Poussière (0)
- 03) Histoire sans fin (0)
- 04) Couleur du Plaisir (3)
- 05) Kalifornia (0)
- 06) Septième Sceau (0)
- 07) Ténéré (0)
- 08) Baiser Volé (3)
- 09) Chantoisel (0)
RUSSAN is a perfect winter cliff northeast of Nîmes in southern France : it's also known as Le Castellas, in the small village of Sainte-Anastasie. Hidden in a meander of the river Gardon, facing south, this horseshoe shaped crag offers to the climbers a perfect peaceful place to climb in the warmth while the wind is blowing from the north and freezing everyone who stays on the plateau above. The Gardon has digged this limestone plateau over the ages while the erosion of this karstic landscape was acting too, providing routes with different shapes and leans.
Those sport climbing routes are dispatched in 18 different sections, facing E, S and W. They are sometimes 35m long with 16 quickdraws required while the shorter routes are not under 18m. The necessary rope is so a 70 meter rope if you want to climb everywhere here. The limestone is sometimes cracked and slabby especially on the slopy and vertical routes, but in the overhangs of the far right sections you will climb on small columns and holes of various sizes.
The grades are all present but the best routes are over 6a with great overhangs in the 7th french grade, even some killer ones in the cave (where and aid climbing route is also waiting for you). Many pure slabs in the 5th french grade, with difficult ones in the 6th and long vertical routes in the 6th are present too.
The cliff is well bolted, the bottom of the routes is often wide and suitable for the whole family, with small trees, bushes. You can even walk down to the river.
Don't forget to take warm clothes when approaching the cliff in winter time, especially when you walk back to the car while the wind is blowing from north.
Don't forget to take water because you will need when in the sun but won't find any natural source i this kartisc area.
|Nearest town or city:||Uzès, Remoulins|
From Nîmes drive north direction Uzès, cross the rebuilt bridge of
Then walk (in the wind sometimes) on the graveled road for 1 kilometer until you reach a standing cross. There, 2 obvious paths : the left one will lead you to the Baume Percée and the sections 11 to 18 by skirting round the eastern extremity of the cliff ; the right one goes to the edge where you climb down for few meters then reach the sections 1 to 5 (upper cliffs) or 6 and 7 to 10 (lower cliffs).
|Latitude, Longitude:||43.92705, 4.33672|
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Lifetime|