The Germans rate this route a III, but the majority of the route is II. There is a section of III in the middle, and it is protected by fixed pitons/bolts.
Route-finding is very difficult, if you have the cash get a guide. Guidebooks are found in the Berchtesgaden bookstore, but you must be able to read German.
To start the route you must take the ferry from Konig See(town) to St. Bartholomew. Recommend doing this the day before the climb, sleeping in the Ostwand Loggerhaus to get an early start on the face. (5 euro for DAV members) If you take the ferry the day of the climb, you will not get there until late morning. The approach is an easily followed trail to the Eis Kapelle, or Ice Chapel, an ice field at the bottom of the face. Retreating on the climb is impossible after the first ice field. Beware of the weather, if it would rain the route would be very dangerous, as it is mostly a free solo. Also beware of cloud covering the upper part of the mountain, usually coming in in the afternoon. There is a great bivy site 300m below the summit, an iron weatherproof shelter completely enclosed, and insulated.
Submitted by: avidwanderer on 2004-09-11
Route ID: 59291