Frankenjura (Fränkische Schweiz) North
- Between Velden & Enzendorf (5)
- Bärnhof & Engenthal (1)
- Gößweinstein (3)
- Kleinziegenfelder Tal (3)
- Krottenseer Forst (2)
- Neuhaus (10)
- Obertrubach & oberstes Trubachtal (2)
- Pegnitz & Flembachtal (3)
- Schlehental & Wichsenstein (1)
- Staffelberg (0)
- Steinfeld (0)
About Frankenjura (Fränkische Schweiz) North:
The Frankenjure (German: 'Frankenjura' also 'Fränkische Schweiz') might be one of the world's most famous sport climbing areas. This is where back in the days guys like Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffat and many others developed the idea of modern free climbing: Kurt Albert started leaving red dots at the base of 'freed' climbs - and created the 'Red Point'. Wolfgang Güllich climbed the first UIAA 11 ever (Action Directe, 9a or 5.14d). And so on.
Overview The northern Frankenjura is seated in the triangle between the three cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth (that's pronounced by-roid, not Beirut, okay?) and Nürnberg (Nuremberg). Unlike other areas, the Fränkische Schweiz is not a system of crags but merely a collection of hundreds of small rocks spread over the woods. There are supposed to be over 1000 crags with over 7000 routes and countless boulders.
Climbing The rock is finest limestone, known for perfect face climbing and incredibly roofs with mean finger pockets. If you wanna climb multi pitch... go somewhere different. In Franken if you're not exhausted by the 30m given, then try something harder! There are some longer routes, but most climbing takes place in crags ranging from 15-25m (50-80ft). Some of the roof routes tend to be wider the high...
Climbing the Frankenjure is gentle for the fingers - at least for the remaining eight. (Erbse)
Protection is widely close to perfect. Bolt spacing varies from gym-like to Saxon stlye (who wants to live forever?), but the mojority of routes offers reasonable to comfortable sport climbing. In the major areas you'll mostly find so called 'Bühlerhaken', glue in bolts of stainless steel. Those are made for eternity, so in doubt they are bomber single-bolt anchors. Same goes for glued in rings, sometimes you just gotta trust German engineering. Due to the publicity of the area the all over quality of the bolting is beyond question - which should't mean you're off responsibility though.
Transportation Though there's public transport and hard core enviromentalists might wanna take the bike the fastest and easiest way to get around is by car. Sorry. On the other hand you might even belay out of it...
Accommodation The Frankenjure is pretty much a tourist area, so it's easy to find a place to stay. For climbers there are at least three places which might be of interest:
Local Specialties Food and Beer. And more food. And don't forget about the beer (Oh, did I mention the beer?).
What’s on the Web A couple of useful links about the area: