climb easy right ascending crack on west face to indistinct crack/corner/overhang. one can place knotted slings. Climb corner to good holds and ring at about 60 ft. Climb up 10 ft, and go 10 ft right to sloping ledge/groove (crux pulling in). Above this, another ring and a few stiff moves into a chimney. Follow chimney without gear 50 ft to summit.
nearly unbelievable this was done in 1939. The germans used "unterstuzung" (human ladders), but the crux probably couldn't be climbed this way--it is 20 ft away from the ring-75 ft up the cliff.
rappel, or traverse to nearby dome and climb alterweg to its summit.
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-07-13
Route ID: 109349