Skip to Content

Routes : Europe : Germany : Sachsen (Saxony) : Elbsandstein : Schrammsteine : Falkenstein : Südriß ('South Crack', VIIa)

Südriß ('South Crack', VIIa) - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Oliver Perry-Smith, 1913
Rock (Trad)
2 Ringbolts. Take full rack of slings, but don't expect continuous protectability.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Prominent crack splitting the right part of the South Face. First done by American Oliver Perry-Smith in the early 1900s. Ranges from hand to off-width. Usually done in three pitches. Belay at first ringbolt (left of crack), continue up crack to overhang and climb right-leaning ramp past 2nd ringbolt. Belay on ledge behind heart-shaped pillar. Traverse left back into the crack and follow it to top. There is a belay anchor on a platform to the left when you exit the chimney.

Submitted by: gbschmitt on 2008-07-11
Last Modified: 2008-09-03
Views: 973
Route ID: 1684

Most Recent Photo

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2011-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars easier than it looks

Probably 10 a. an overhanging crack system first couple of moves are hardest and require a well placed knot or two. higher, there is a section of overhanging fists (mid 10) lined with broken dinner plate holds5.8. at the base is a plaque "Tobias 1963 to 2003". I wondered which of the broken dinner plates was Tobias this section is not protectable and a fall would probably be deadly. I climbed the fists crack.

we did about 40 routes over 3 weeks. this was the tamest crack.

Added: 2011-07-08

  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: juergen on 1995-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

recommendet on a good day of mentality

Added: 1995-10-22