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Talseite - 5.11d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
several medium to small knots over the first 50 ft. One ring over the last 150 ft. No other pro possibilities.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


The Schwager is split by a top to bottom crack. The first part is vertical fingers to a small roof to a hand crack and a few feet of easier climbing, and the first Ring. After this, a full on fists roof, the crux, followed by 50 ft of overhanging wide hands to a second ring. A fall in this area may not be survived. Past the second ring, a short bit of overhanging fists to a long section of fists, turning to off width and roof. Numerous suitors have taken the fall in this area falls of up to 100 ft without injury. The last 50 ft is a struggle through a widening chimney with a topout made friendly by a few signature saxon "thank god" holds. Henry Barber backed off this route. He returned a year or two later to complete it. There is a famous (German) picture of him after the route his cloths are in taters. He also wrote an essay for Arnold about the event, and the essay is published in one of Bernd Arnold's autobiographies. The conversion table gives this route a grade of 11 A. My partner and I both found the conversion from Saxon grades a bad jokes. We thought the Talwand was 11+.

Descent Options:

Rappel off back side.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-07-09
Last Modified: 2012-07-10
Views: 489
Route ID: 109307

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: stevecurtis on 2011-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Saxon Rules

I lived a climbed in Germany for 6 years. Various partners tried to entice me to visit; I refused considering the "Rules", an absurd vestige of Communist Control.

Nothing is further from truth. Elb Sandstone is a climbing museum, and should be visited by any hard core lifer. The experience is worth the rules.

My normal onsight level is 12 A. Onsighting 11+ X is not something I'd generally do (or ever repeat). Anyway, the stars were aligned, the fans were all in place, and the partner was first rate. I also received a healthy chunk of beta reducing he accomplishment to a flash.
After this climb, I spent a further 9 days climbing at the Elb, where I slowly did things in reverse, learning to place proper Elb Pro on 5.10s. I'll go back

(we tested knots, large to small, in the Phalz. They all held falls, perhaps better than nuts in soft sandstone. The main disadvantage is that a good knot took me a few minutes to place)

Added: 2011-07-09