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Routes : Europe : Ireland : Cork : Knockadoon Head

Knockadoon Head

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Climbing Sections:

About Knockadoon Head:

The rock is categorized as "Gyleen Formation - sandstone, with mudstone and siltstone" and, in general, is sound, with good friction and good gear placements. As with all sea-cliffs, the more open the rock is to the scouring power of the waves, the cleaner and sounder it is. The main type of climbing on offer is on slabs, with the occasional steep wall thrown in for good measure.
Nearest town or city: Youghal
Directions: Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends in a field in front of an old tower. Cars may be parked just inside the field. Although this is private land there are no access problems at present and, if climbers behave responsibly, this situation should remain unchanged.
Latitude, Longitude: 51.88129, -7.86707
Access Issues:
Camping: No
When to Climb: Summer
Quantity of Climbs: Week