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Old Head

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About Old Head:

Old Head of Kinsale About 35 minutes drive from Cork City, the crags are about 5-10 minutes from Golf Club car park. This is the oldest, most developed crag in the Cork area. The Main Slabs area give rather unusual climbing on very small but very positive holds and the reaction of visiting climbers has (allegedly) varied from outright boredom to absolute terror. The Old Head also offers more conventional pull and puff type climbing, mostly on steep walls and slabs in the Muscle Cliff and Cave areas. While the climbs are mostly in the lower grades there are enough harder climbs to give most climbers a case of knee shake. Protection on the main slabs sometimes requires a little in the way of imagination and it helps to have a few RPs or microwedges on your gear rack. Climbs are in the 12 to 20 metre range. It is almost always possible to climb on the main the Main Slabs, even in wet weather (if Force 10 gales bring along your anorak). Access Climbing at the Old Head of Kinsale has been going on since the 1960s. Because of ease of access it was the local crag of the Cork climbers until the development and opening of the Old Head Golf Course in the late 1990s placed restrictions on public access (contrary to its planning permission – but that’s another story!), including requiring proof of insurance and the need to ring in advance for access via the main gates. The Golf Course had ended the long standing use of the headlands for Sunday strolls, claiming that it is not a properly constituted Right of Way, however they have agreed to allow access with prior notification to “special interest groups” (fishermen, botanists, birdwatchers, geologists and climbers). Contact The Old Head Golf Course in advance (021-4778444) to notify them you require access. The management ask (over the phone) that climbers are members of MCI or hold climbing insurance of some sort. The crag is situated 9 miles from Kinsale. From Kinsale the road to Clonakilty is followed for 4 miles then take a left turn signposted for the Old Head of Kinsale. It is possible to drive as far as the Golf Course clubhouse (5-10 minutes from the crags). There are several crags in the area close to the lighthouse (Main Slabs, Muscle Cliff and Cave Area) which are all accessed via the lighthouse compound and will be described separately. History The possibility of climbing first occurred to Sean Ryan while bird-watching at the cliffs in 1961 and for a few years he explored the area with Con O’Leary and one or two others others. In July 1964 Sean led Tain Bo Cualigne, one of the best climbs on the Main Slabs. The area was further developed in the late 1970s by members of the newly formed Cork Mountaineering Club and a lot of the new climbs were put up, with Dennis O’Connell and Sean O’Riordan being prominent in the new route list Main Slabs The main slabs are situated almost directly below the lighthouse. It is possible to contour around the lighthouse compound on the left hand side if the gate to the compound is locked. There is a large ledge at the top to the slabs and there is a scramble descent to the large platform at the base of the cliff on the left hand side of the slabs (if facing the crag). The rock is mainly thinly laminated fine sandstone and shale. The angle of the slabs is gentle, at about 50 degrees. Holds are small but positive flakes of rock. All the climbs are above high tide level. Protection on the easier climbs is generally good, being mainly medium sized nuts. On the harder climbs (VS and above) protection is usually only possible with RPs and microwedges. Because of the gentle angle of the rock these are generally reasonably secure. Routes are described from left to right when facing the crag. 1 The Chimney 12 m VD P. Long (solo) This climb is not on the slabs. To reach the base of the climb go towards the tip of the headland. The corner/chimney is on the left of the descent route. 2** Thin Crack (aka Frantic Spider) 13m HS (4b/4c) K. O’Mahony (solo) Just left of the way is a slab with two thin cracks. The climb goes iup the right thin crack which runs diagonally up to the right hand corner of an overlap. Move up left to a good foothold just below the overlap. From this point it is possible to continue straight up or to traverse right up under the overlap. It is also possible to escape left, which is easier. Protection is poor, RPs and micros only. 3* Overhang Crack 14 m VD S. Ryan (solo) About 8 metres right of the way down is an obvious small overhang about 7m up below which is a small ledge. The climb follows the thin twisting crack to the to the right hand side of the ledge under the overhang. This point also can be gained more easily by climbing the obvious diagonal fault on the left. From the ledge the normal finish is to traverse delicately left below the overhang, turn the overhang on the left and go up diagonally to the top. It is also possible to turn the overhang on the right. Both variations are quite delicate. 4** Yellow Crack 17 m S (4a) P. Long Three metres left of climb 3 is an obvious thin yellowish crack. Climb the crack or the slab to the left of it and continue up the corner to a ledge. Go straight up the top. Delicate. Protection is poor RPs or wedges. 5 Razors Edge 17 m HS (4a) T. Sweetman (solo) Immediately right of 4 is a steep slab whoe only features are ripple marks and tiny flakes. Climb the centre of the slab immediately right of climb 4 to a small overhang, then over this to a good ledge. Continue to the top on friction. Delicate. No protection. 6 Southern Cross 17 m HS (4a) S. O’Riordan/C. O’Leary To the right of 5 is a steep holdless slab below a small diagonal overlap (usually wet). Climb middle of slab to a good foothold below where the slab steepens. Climb this keeping to the left to a good ledge. Move left to where two cracks form an X. Climb through the centre of the X. Follow either crack to the top, the left on is harder. Protection is poor. 7 Ar Eagla Na Heagla 18 m VD S. Ryan/J. Murphy About one third of the way along the crag a large fault goes diagonally right up the cliff. Climb the fault to gain the large ledge on the left (small nut). Move left for one metre then climb directly to the top on small holds. 8* Arrowhead No1 20 m VD P. Long/G. Ryan Approximately 9 m right of the fault is an inverted V formation in the rock (the Arrowhead). Climb directly up too and through the arrowhead (crux). Good protection. 9** Meridian 20 m S (3c) P. Long/G. McDonnell Start 3m right of a fault below a small ledge. Gain ledge directly and continue straight up to a small arrowhead. Move through the arrowhead to gain the slab above (crux). Trend delicately up and right towards a crack/corner in the overlap above. Protection can be arranged with small wires and RPs. 10 Impulse 20 m VS (4c) E. O’Flynn/D. O’Connell Start just right of 9.Climb slab directly to the overlap. Surmount overlap and climb slab using ripples (crux). Poor protection can be arranged just below the overlap. 11* Levitation 20 m HS (4b) P. Long/G. McDonnell About half way along the cliff is an obvious large arrowhead (climb 13). This climb starts some 4 m to the left of this, below and a little to the right of an obvious thin crack on the upper slab. Climb the slab to a small diagonal fault. Cross this on to the slab above at a good foothold. Move left and up towards a shallow corner. Use this to gain crack in upper slab. Follow this to the top. Protection is mainly small wires. 12 Kojak 20 m E1 (5b) S. O’Riordan/D. O’Connell Climb the slab between 11 and 13. Gain the overlap easily and cross to a relatively large but loose foothold. Move up to a rest at a small crack in the slab. Climb the slab keeping to the right hand side. Very delicate. Some protection is available at the overlap and a poor RP runner above. A route giving relief rather than satisfaction. 13** Arrowhead No 2 20 m S (3c) P. Long/D. O’Sullivan The route goes up to and through the large obvious arrowhead about halfway along the cliff. Above the arrowhead the route follows the relatively large corner to the top. Protection is fairly good but the climb may appear fairly hard for it’s grade. Left of the arrowhead the cliff is divided into two halves by a small overlap. Above this is a smooth slab, below an easier more broken slab. About 5 metres right of the arrowhead on climb 13 is an obvious large crack, the Tain Bo Cuailgne (or Piton Crack). 14*** Song of the Sea 21m VS (4c) D. O’Connell/S. O’Riordan With the exception of Kojak this is the most sustained climb on the cliff. Start as for 13 but cross the overlap just below the arrowhead to a small horizontal foothold. Climb the slab above following the thin crack to the top. Ptotection is poor (microwires only). 15** Flanker 21m VS (4c) C. Torrans/C. O’Leary This climb follows the thin diagonal crack in the upper slab which meets the top of the larger crack of 16. Start just to the right of 13. Cross the overlap at a good foothold to a resting position on the slab above. Follow the crack diagonally right to the top. Protection consists of microwedges only. 16*** Tain Bo Cuailnge Crack (Piton Crack) 21m S (3c) S. Ryan/D. Ryan Probably the best climb on the crag and a classic of its grade. The climb goes straight up to a recess in the overlap below the obvious crack. Cross the overlap at this point and continue up the crack (crux) to the top. Protection is excellent. 17** The Nut Must Go On 21m VS (4c) S. O’Riordan/D. O’Connell/P. Brennan This climb goes up the upper slab about 2 m to the right of 16 Start just to the right of 16, go up to the overlap and gross it at t good hold. There are two parallel thin cracks in the slab above, the route goes more or less straight up using the cracks for any available protection. The climbing is sustained but there is a definite crux where the slab steepens. Protection can be arranged with difficulty with microwedges. 18*** Wrinklepicker 20m E2 (5c) ??? Climb the lower slab and cross the overlap and continue straight up the unprotected, smooth slab to the top. 19* Pussyfoot 20m VS (4b) J. Domoney/S. O’Riordan Near the right hand side of the cliff the overlap drops down about 1 m. The climb starts at this point. Climb to the overlap and cross it to gain the base of a thin crack. Follow this delicately to the top. The crux is about halfway up the upper slab. Protection can be arranged with difficulty with microwedges. 20 Gastronomical 20m S (3c) P. Long/P. Brennan This follows the thin crack in the upper slab between 19 and 21. This route is difficult to see from below and will continue to surprise you as you climb. Start at a fault running across the cliff (good protection). Climb right for about 1 metre then straight up. Protection is adequate but requires a bit of looking for. 21 Wide Crack 16m D S. Ryan (solo) The easiest route on the crag. It follows the wide crack near the right hand side of the crag, hence the original name. Commonly used as a way down, but still a nice climb for someone looking for an easy route. 22 Highway 50m S (4a/b) T. Sweetman/S. O’Riordan This climb is a traverse of the slabs starting at Wide Crack (21) and ending at Meridian (9). Start at the point where the angle of 21 lessens to provide a shallow scoop. Traverse left across the face staying just above the overlap. It is possible to belay at the point where the traverse crosses climb 13. The crux is near the end and the protection is good. To the right of the Main Slabs, separated from it by a large fault is another area of slabs. At low tide this area can be reached by scrambling across from the base of from the Main Slabs but this is impossible at high tide. An alternative approach is to scramble down from the top of the cliff below a narrow exit in the lighthouse wall. This was the old lighthouse rubbish tip. There are three short climbs on the small cliff. 1 Over the Waves 7m D C.Torrens/C. O’Leary Start at the high water mark at the bottom of the slabs. Climb diagonally left to reach an obvious v-shaped gap at the top of the wall. 2 The Niche 7m VS 4c C.Torrens/C. O’Leary Takes the overlap near its left-hand end. 3 Discovery 7m D C. O’Leary (solo) Higher up on the right is a broken quartz vein. Climb the crack (giving access to the main cliff) High up on the slab there are two parallel cracks cut by a third crack:- 4 Twin Cracks 12m VD G. McDonnell/P. Long Start halfway up the slab. Climb the two intersecting cracks on the right. Farther to the right, separated by a low fault is a larger steep slab with three longer climbs 5 Fawlty Towers 25m VD J. Domoney/P. Long Climb the sloping corner between the slab and the fault on its left side 6 Ski-jump 33m HS 3c P. Long/ G. McDonnell This is a two pitch climb. 1) Start at the high water mark in the centre of the slab, going up to the wide crack. Then follow a faint crack up the middle of the cliff and hand-traverse right to a large ledge (crux). 2) From the ledge follow a diagonal crack left and continue up to where the angle eases. 7 Confrontation 30m S 3c T. O’Neill/K. O’Mahony This is a two pitch climb. Near the right hand edge of the slab is a well-defined crack leading up to a large ledge. 1) Start at the high water mark near the bottom of the crack and climb it to the ledge (crux). 2) From the ledge follow a diagonal crack left and continue up to where the angle eases (shared with Ski-jump). Variation – Go straight up from the ledge (VD) Muscle Cliff This is the short but very steep cliff just below the lighthouse just at the point of the headland. The crag is reached by following the same route as for the main slabs to the point where the descent to the platform begins. Go down towards the tip of the headland to a wide ledge. Follow this to the right to the base of the crag. The climbs are mainly in the VS to HVS grades. Protection is normally good. Most climbs overhang and all are more difficult than they appear. Belays at the top of the crag may be difficult to find and the rock near the top of the crag tends to be somewhat loose. The routes are described from left to right. 1 West Corner 13m S (4a) J. Domoney/P. Brennan Near the left hand end of the cliffs is an obvious quartz covered ramp. This climb takes the slightly overhanging corner just left of this ramp. Protection can be hard to find, especially at the top. 2 Hot Fingers 13m HS (4b) D. O’Connell/H. O’Brien This route goes up the obvious quartz covered ramp to a ledge. From here it is possible to traverse left into climb 23. The original route went straight up but the rock here is very loose. Protection is available to the eagle-eyed. 3 Big Foot 14m VS (4c) D. O’Connell/S. O’Riordan To the right of the quartz ramp a shallow groove moves up to an overhang. The climb follows the groove and moves left to the arete at the overhang. Climb the arete for a few feet (crux) to where it is possible to move back to the right. Finish up a shallow gully. (Variation - It is also possible to move right at the overhang, this gives a climb of lesser quality but at a similar grade.) Climbing is sustained and protection is good. 4* Slot 13m HS (4b) C. Torrans/ J. Domoney About half way along the cliff is a chimney at about half height. The base of the chimney is reached by a strenuous pull up large flakes to surmount the initial overhang. The chimney is followed to the top. Some loose rock near the top of the climb should not detract from you enjoyment. Protection is good 5* Vulgarian 14m HVS (5b) C. Torrans/P. Long Right of 25 is a shallow cave bounded on the left by a quartz covered slab. Climb up into the cave on good rock. Move left and slightly down onto the quartz arete (crux). Follow the groove above to the top. Protection in available, but not always at the preferred place. 6 Unnamed 14m HVS (5b) J. Thompson/P. Long Start as for the previous route but before reaching the cave move left to below the shallow grove on the right. Climb the overhang at the groove, tending to the right and continue in this direction over broken rock to finish on the large ledge above 29. Protection is available but is difficult to place. 7 Bludgeon 12m VS (4c) C. Torrans/C. O’Leary Climb the obvious vertical corner below a large chimney. Finish up chimney using holds on the seaward side. Protection is reasonable but there is some loose rock. Beginners Crag From the small building on the highest point of the Old Head go along the cliff southward for about 150 m until a pile of stones is reached. Below this, almost at sea level, is a wide platform of rock. There is a small crag here, good for beginners. A rock shaped like a bird’s beak juts out from the top. The climbs, from left to right, are:- 1 The Bulge 9m D S. O’Riordan/K. Buckley Immediately left of the prominent beak of rock is an overhanging block. Climb to the overhang then move left along a horizontal crack to a ledge, then up to the top via a crack in the block. 2 The Beak 10m D C. O’Leary (solo) Climb the small chimney onto the block, then on to the top. 3 Beak Crack 10m VD C. O’Leary/R. Evans Immediately right of The Beak is a crack which goes up to the beak. Climb the crack. 4 Problem 4m MS Unknown A few metres to the right of Beak Crack is a shallow, smooth groove leading up to a wide ledge. 5 Black Crack 10m D C. O’Leary/R. Evans Four metres right of 4 a crack goes up to the ledge and continues to the top. Climb the crack. Variation –At the ledge go left a few metres and climb an obvious crack. (D) 6 Overhanging Corner 8m D C. O’Leary (solo) Climb an obvious corner to a ledge and then easily to the top. 7 Permanent Wave 8m D C. O’Leary (solo) There is a grey wall on the right scarred with horizontal cracks. Just right of 6 there is a crack. Climb the crack then trend left to the top. The Lay-back Crag Continue along the top of the cliffs from the Beginner’s Crag for ten minutes towards the lighthouse. Below a gently sloping slab is a platform which an enormous block leans against a small cliff. The climbs start from the platform. 1 The Lay-back 7m MS S. Ryan (solo) Right of the block is a corner with a crack in it. Climb the crack by laybacking. 2 Happy Days 8m VD S. Ryan/C. O’Leary Climb the corner between the block and the cliff. 3 Sunshine Corner 4m VD S. Ryan (solo) Climb the corner on the left of the block. The Cave Area This area is sometimes called the Little Red Gate crag as there used to be a small iron gate through the lighthouse compound wall above the crag, but the opening has since been bricked up. Cross the compound wall at the bricked up point and follow the wall on your left to the top of the crag. At this point is a large ledge (sometimes slippery) with a large boulder. Climbs in this are mainly steep wall and slab climbs. Most are short but afford good sport. The tide can affect climbing in this area, especially in rough weather. It is not possible to climb here if there is a high sea running. The base of the crag can be reached most easily by continuing out the headland until it is possible to climb down easily (not possible at high tide). The chimney at the headland end of the basecamp ledge can be downclimbed (Black Cleft) but is not easy and an abseil descent is probably safer. Protection varies, with moderate sized chocks being the most useful. 30 Bonus 14m ??? Near the descent route on the headland 2 m right of a shallow chimney a series of small ledges lead back to the ridge. Climb these to the top. 31 ??? 32 ??? 33 ??? 34 Q.E.D. 14m ??? At the end of the wall is an obvious large chimney (Black Cleft). Start at the base of this and climb directly up the steep wall on the left. Protection requires thought. 35 Black Cleft 14m ??? This route takes the obvious large black chimney sometimes used as a descent to the platform. No protection but the climbing is easy 36 Pisa Problem 14m ??? Take the large rectangular sideward sloping buttress just right of Black Cleft. A route made less serious by the fact that it is possible to step off it to rest on the ledge of Black Cleft. Protectable with small wires. 37 Groovy 13m ??? Climb the shallow corner/groove left of Black Cleft, delicate to start. Protection requires imagination (you have to imagine it is there). 38 Hidden Meaning 13m ??? Left of Groovy is a large overhang. This route takes the corner just right of this. A good memory is required. No protection. 39 Tenticles 12m ??? This route is in the wide gully between the headland ridgee and the arete from the cave. Climb the steep slab just below the left hand side of the overhang to a resting foothold at the same height as the overhang. Climb the slab above tending to the right to the top. Protectable poorly with small wires. 40 Squib 12m ??? This route goes up the corner near the back of the gully. The route is usually wet. Protection is good. 41 Playground 13m ??? This route goes up the ledges at the back of the gully. Finish up a wide corner/crack. (Variation - for more fun, try tackling the projecting blocks near the top). 42 The Arete 15m ??? Climb the obvious large arete. Climb up edge to a ledge. Turn the arete on the left (seaward) side, delicate. Then climb back onto the arete and follow the crest to a ledge. Go left to the top. (Variation - It is possible to move right from the second ledge to the projection block, then move left to the top. The overhanging snout of the arete gives two more fine variations to the start of this climb. To climb just right of centre is quite difficult, just left of centre is nearly impossible.) To be continued
Approach:
Approach Time: <10 mins
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: SandStone
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect: All Day Sun