This elegant line was first climbed by Comici in 1933. The climb starts near a very small cave and a commemorative plaque on the left hand side of the south ridge. The first pitch leads to a rap station about 25m up. The second pitch crosses to the right of the ridge after a couple of hard friction moves on a steep dihedral. The folowing 4-5 pitches go generraly up and to the right and pose route finding challanges. About 25m bellow the prominent overhanging dihedral traverse to the left to a belay station. Do not traverse to the felt too early. Then climb the imposing dihedral and traverse to the left again after a sequence of hard moves near three pins connected by cords. The last three pitches lead to the first platform. Traverse to the left to a large rap ring at the base of an easly wall leading to the peak. About 6 raps lead to the gully between Cima Grande and Cima Piccola which leads to the base of the climb.
Submitted by: marius on 2002-09-01
Route ID: 23110
Nice route, except for the ledge that broke on me during the traverse, sending me on a 10-foot swing into the anchor, just before I had to lead the crux, and then the 7 hour rap ordeal when we mistook the overhanging sport route on the backside for the descent...