Skip to Content

Routes : Europe : Italy : Lombardia : 3- Val di Mello : Scoglio delle Metamorfosi : Luna Nascente 350m VII (V+ A0)

Luna Nascente 350m VII (V+ A0) - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Trad. Full rack from blue Alien to BD #4.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

What a wonderful multi-pitch route. 8 pitches of lay-backing in a crack system. Technical crux are the two first pitches which however can be aided through. The mental crux (and decisive factor!) is the last pitch which basically is a 50m totally unprotectable slab of grade V (5.7). However, here the difficulties are at the beginning 10m of the pitch, afterwards it tops out and flattens considerably for the last 20m. Climb "Stomacho Peloso" first as a testpiece - if you can't send it, Luna Nascente is not for you, you'll be stuck below the last pitch.

Submitted by: heiko on 2006-05-30
Views: 2669
Route ID: 55322

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

9 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: cala on 2009-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars simply amazing

:-O

Added: 2010-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Climber79 on 2002-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the most fabulous route I've ever climbed !

Incredible !

Added: 2009-01-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bellaitalia on 2006-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The best day of climbing ever! We were the first pair on the route, so all we saw above us was a sea of granite and beautiful long cracks.

Added: 2006-06-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: booger on 2006-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: heiko
Added: 2006-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: heiko on 2006-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

still too impressed to comment on it. the crux is definitely the last pitch of 60m totally unprotectable slab of V.

Witnessed by: Taz (alternated)
Added: 2006-05-26

... Read all 9 ascent notes