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Routes : Europe : Norway : Nordland : Lofoten : Svolvaergeita : Highway to Heaven

Highway to Heaven - 5.10c

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Route sequence (left to right): 8
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Originally the cause of some controversy this route involved a lot of highly visible cleaning. It ascends the prominent pale stripe up the upper, right-hand face of The Goat’s front face. Each of the main pitches has a short aid section at the start then some strenuous jamming. Carry a few blades and lost arrow pegs for the aid. 1) 30m. Climb steep exposed and scarey grass and ferns to reach a ledge at the foot of the cleaned crack system. 2) 6+, 45m. Aid the crack (the first 8m can be done free at a serious 7) and continue up a thin vertical crack until a hollow flake can be free climbed to a possible stance. Belay or continue up the hand/fist/offwidth above to easier cracks and a small stance on the right. 3) A1/6+, 35m. Aid up the smooth face on the right (two bolts) then free climb up the exposed, strenuous, right-trending crack. FA. Ed Webster and Odd-Roar Wiik made the first ascent on.8.12, 1991 after spending two days cleaning the route. They witnessed a funeral taking place in the cemetery while they were on the summit of the Goat and also were met upon their descent after a day of cleaning by a local policeman and the Svolvær Mountain Rescue team! Their dislodging of loose rocks and warning shouts had prompted an elderly woman neighbour to telephone the police to say some climbers needed rescuing. This was duly reported the next day on the local radio and in Lofotposten! Øyvind Vadla free climbed part of the start of Pitch 2 on.7.2, 1993

Submitted by: Ofe on 2012-02-24
Views: 238
Route ID: 110662