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Routes : Europe : Norway : Nordland : Stetind : Regular Route

Regular Route - 5.6

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Couple small-medium cams
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This is the "tourist" route up Stetinden. From Gear-Up Rock, hike the scree-riddled trail up to gain the Hall's Foretopp Ridge. Continue on easy granite "pavement" up to the huge cairn. Past this, the ridge becomes very narrow, with dangerous exposure on both sides, but the going is easy, first walking (or a cheval) along the ridge. If it is windy, this is a tricky (i.e. dangerous) spot. Where the ridge falls away vertically, drop down clmber's left to a good traverse ledge and continue on this to its end. Here, the ledge meets a ramp sloping up left to end at the crux, a short hand-traverse under an overhang. There are a couple pitons and often a fixed cam at this point. After passing the crux, slip through a notch onto the other side of the ridge and clamber along toward the summit. Though steep and airy, the going is quite easy again. The summit is much larger than it appears to be from the fjord; encompassing a football-field-size region of broken rock. The view on a clear day is dumbfoundingly incredible. Why this isn't one of the most popular summits on Earth escapes me.

Descent Options:

Retrace the descent, but instead of reversing the crux, utilize a rappel anchor on top of the pinnnacle above (Mysosten block). 25m rappel to the ledge, whence back to retracing the ascent.

Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-03-16
Last Modified: 2009-03-17
Views: 1046
Route ID: 98263

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1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jclimbs on 2007-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Favorite Alpine Ascent

Had phenomenal weather. Started at 3am, back at 3pm. Never needed headlamp. Originally planned ascent of South Pillar Route, but my partner couldn't make the trip, so I opted to climb the tourist route on my own. Used Spider System for the crux, no rope needed elsewhere. Easy but my legs and arms did cramp up a bit during the ascent. Approx. 4000' of vert. gain.

Added: 2009-03-16