From lysboten, Kjerag is the huge cliff about 10 miles out the fyord on the left side. Access is easy because base jumpers use a spit of land at the base for their jumps. One can catch a ride to the base for 10 or 15$ most days. There are rough camping areas on the spit (under a boulder). About 15 climbs are detailed on this cliff. We did the bottom half of Hoka Hey, and got lost in a rainstorm, ending in a crowded slot, somewhat protected from rain, where we spent the night forming the German-American friendship society.
the route starts low angle, and it isn't until about the 4th pitch that 5.10 climbing is encountered. After this, good adventure climbing following cracks and features to a large ledge about 1/2 way up. At this point, Hoka HEY traverses a bunch right. We got in the wrong dihedral, and ended up at a spike belay 200ft above the ledge, aid climbing above, and a dangerous traverse left into the big unpleasant chimney route. We traversed, went up several hundred feet, and wound up in said slot. The next day we spent 9 hours rappelling in the rain. Supposedly, Hoka Hey has excellent hand crack to 11+ the entire way. I'll be back.
walk off and catch a taxi
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2009-11-09
Route ID: 102401