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Routes : Europe : Romania : Cluj Napoca : turzii : Cheile Turzii : Peretele Coltului Crapat (Cipches)

Peretele Coltului Crapat (Cipches) - 5.11a A1

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Kovacs Gyorgy, Gyongyosi Miklos, 1972
Rock (Sport) Aid
Pitons in place
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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Grade:A1 or A0 5.9 or 5.11a In the center of a limestone wall. No bolts, some belays on pitons stacked into pockets. Mostly a slab climbing route. Big exposure. It was originally an aid route so there are many pitons, almost in all the pockets. Some pitons wouldn't hold a fall but there are so many that overall it's quite a safe climb. The 4th pitch has some small overhangs, and grassy ledges. The 5th pitch is on grassy ledges with some loose rock. Pitch 1 has a grassy dirty start (30 feet). The rest is on clean slabs with pockets edges and slopers. Sustained climbing. Some pitches can be linked with a 70m rope and long quickdraws.

Descent Options:

Follow the ridge to the left to 2 rappel pitons on the right side of the ridge.Rappel (2 with a 60 m rope), follow a gully to the left, til you get to the turist trail inside the gorge.

Submitted by: mishu8848 on 2007-01-09
Views: 447
Route ID: 82247