Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
the route was firs done in 1976 so it's entirely protected by fixed vintage rusty pins. But it was considered a aid line in it's day so there are a lot of them , up to 20 on a 90 foot pitch and most of them are solid. Nuts and cams are useless on this rou
Classic route of the gorge. The bottom of the route is marked with red paint with its real name "traseul peretele coltului crapat" ; chipches is its hungarian nickname. There are two ways to reach the route either climb the 3 pitch "peretele suspendat" (the suspended wall) and from the top of the route follow a small path left(looking up) to the bottom of the route. The bottom of the suspended wall is accesed by climbing a streep path that starts on the right side of the small waterfall on the main tourist path throgh the gorge 6 feet before the stairs. the other way to take a steep path to the right of the tourist path before the suspended wall the path takes you straight up on top of the suspended wall( same path ussed for the descend of the suspended wall) and then folow the previous instructions.
The route is solid limestone. Slaby and sustained.
The firs pitch folows lower angle terrain an patches of grass few pins then just before the belay we start climbing the vertical wal we reack a diagonally sloping ledge with 2-3 pins for the belay.
second and third pitches follow the pins and it's basically impossible to get lost unless you start following the BOLTS. The bolts are from "Calatorie Pshihedelica" (psychedelic journey) witch is rarely done because it's a sustained 5.12 and up with runnouts of 20 feet common in the last pitches. If you don't clip every pin and use long runners to prevent rope drag you can link these two pitches even with a 50m rope.
The forth pitch: traverse right 30 feet until you reach the corner and then straight up and over the small overhang. belay on the right after another 30 feet diagonally.
the last pitch has two variants one trough the chimney on the left( not recommended bad pro 5.6 grassy muddy chimney) or on the right one pitch straight up beautiful slab climbing up to a grassy ledge the walk up to the summit another 40 feet.
the photo posted for this area is the original topo of this route. It is graded 5A(on the romanian alpinism scale of 1 to 7B) the aid sections and free sections are are in old romanian grades the route can be redpointed at no harder that 5.11c but very sustained and technical or with a few moves of aid grabbing draws ( no ettriers needed) 5.10-ish.
from the top rappel from the pins and metal cross 30 feet to a couple of pins and then one or two rappels take to the ground behind the wall descend the steep path until you reach a big debris field then descend on the debris field to the tourist path
Submitted by: cata08 on 2008-10-07
Route ID: 95117