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Routes : Europe : Romania : cheile bicaz : "fagetul ciucului" west wall : lacrima de piatra( the stone tear)

lacrima de piatra( the stone tear) - 5.11d A3

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Mircea Noagiu, J.Vass, G. Tudor, C. Paduraru 1975
Rock (Trad) Aid
new bolts in most belays, some bolts in aid sections were the fixed aid pins have been removed because they were to old, The aid sections marked with A1e, A2e feature the first ever use of expantion bolts ( rivets actually) in romania in 1965. That's why
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d A3
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Start from a tree at the bottom of the route, You can-t miss it. The first pitch is on easy low angle terain. For the next pitch the Hendrix variation on bolts is recomended. This variant is easy to recognize because it's bolted and the belay is just before the third belay on the the route. 60m rope recommended and 18 draws.(5.11.a). The rest of the route is a neverending string of difficult exposed climbing culminating in a free traverse on tyhe edge of a huge roof on the last pitch witch is the crux of the route. One of the most exposed and beautiful sections ever in romanian trad routes.

Descent Options:

follow the tourist trail back to the monastery and then to the raza soarelui crag. The route can be descend folowing it's line because it goes straight up the wall. it's basiclly the direct of the wall.

Submitted by: cata08 on 2008-08-14
Views: 747
Route ID: 95366

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11d A3
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cata08 on 2007-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars classic

we spent 6 hours on the route because when we got to the last belay( the only one who is protected against rain) a storm started and it took about an hour to dry. The last belay is a big ledge just below a huge roof

Added: 2008-08-15