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Sidewinder (III) -

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Poor Scottish winter gear: a lot of nuts, bulldogs, warthogs and pegs, but no decent ice screws.
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1: Start at the left of the buttress and climb an obvious right-leaning groove which becomes a small corner at the top. Belay from a large platform here, marked by a bit of old rope tat. 2: Continue up and onto a right-trending ramp round onto the far side of the buttress (exposed). Climb a small wall (crux) then easier ground to belay below an obvious chimney. 3: Climb the chimney to a huge platform with a fantastic view (If your ropes are long enough to allow you to combine climbing this chimney with the previous pitch, do so, otherwise, this is a VERY short pitch!) 4: Squeeze down the gap with the big chockstone in it (this is the top of Savage Slit, so please take care) then turn right and climb the gully to the top. Note: This climb is very hard for its grade in lean conditions. With no solid nevee, pitches one and two will feel strenuous and the crux becomes technical.

Submitted by: tradman on 2006-03-06
Views: 450
Route ID: 74092