Varied, pleasant, airy and well-protected climb. Sometimes dubbed the best rockclimb of all of Sweden!
Follow the horizontal crack on the rightmost part of Villskuddväggen that starts at ground level, then switch to the vertical one. Traverse to the left when that crack starts turning right and join a twin sets of diagonal cracks that will lead to a roof, avoided on the left side. Two more vertical cracks will lead you to the top.
Walk off or abseil from a two-bolts anchor found on a ledge one meter below the actual summit, on the right side of the wall.
Submitted by: jonte on 2003-03-24
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 33861
The most important thing to know: traverse to the left before the first vertical crack veers off to the right below a roof. I missed this part and followed said roof, which is substantially harder climbing (rated 7- and felt even harder), had to lower and retry.
Long, sustained climb at 6-/6, pretty good protection all the way (small-medium nuts, camalots in .5/.75 and #1, nothing bigger necessary). It traverses a lot, so rope drag can become an issue. Top anchor with a nice tree. There's a bolted rap anchor a bit further, and walking off is also possible.