Alpine only on exposed traverses one to tree bolts.
III (UIAA Grading System) 3162m. 10371 ft.
located a short distance north of Grimsel Pass, is the culmination of three ridges separating three valleys: Bächlital, Grübental and Hühnertal. It offers climbing on excellent granite at all levels of difficulty. Relatively speaking, these climbs are not overly long but require traversing a glacier to get to them. topo map
Of the various routes, the East Ridge (Ostgrat) is the most popular. First climbed by Preiswerk, Zürcher, Anderegg and Baer in 1947, it offers spectacular ridge climbing at the UIAA III and IV (~5.4 to about 5.6) level. The direct start is UIAA V (~5.8).
The Bächlital, with its proximity to a main road and excellent trail is much visited by sport climbers and families. The SAC regularly offers youth climbing courses here, so it can be quite busy on a summer weekend.The Gruebental and the Hühnertal also offer a great variety of sport and alpine routes.
Rough Swiss coordinates are 661.650/160.440 on the CH-1903 datum. The 1:25000 topographic map needed is 1230 Guttannen.
Since this is close to Hiendertelltihorn, one could go easily do these climbs during an extended stay by descending to the next needed hut from whichever climb you decide to do first. The Undere Bächlilücke provides the easiest access between the Grueben and Bächli valleys.
East Ridge: This is the most popular route. 400m vertical of climbing. It starts from the Unteren Bächlilücke, which is reached from either hut. The direct start is UIAA V, ~5.8 but can be avoided. After that one follows the ridge , staying on the ridge crest as desired. In a few places one has to leave the ridge crest. Some pins and bolts are permanently placed. 2 to 3 hours from the lower gap.
One can traverse the entire mountain by descending the SW ridge (UIAA II, 4 - 5) to the Oberen Bächlilücke (upper Bächli gap). From the Oberen Bächlilücke one can descend to the Gaulihut , from where other climbs in the region are accessed.
The direct d
Submitted by: tom75ch on 2008-08-26
Route ID: 95608