Skip to Content

Schafbergkante 5b+ - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Sport)
PG13
12
Some bolts, bring lots of slings and a few nuts / smaller friends.
1350
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Classic arete climb on limestone. Mostly mellow, but the crux pitch felt pretty hard for a 5b+... There are harder alternatives (5c+ to 6a+) on three pitches (see topo). The first one was ok. The second one would have required a dicey traverse, and the third one some moves on loose holds before you can clip the first bolt.

Descent Options:

Continue arete to peak, downclimb or short rap. We used the "2. Ausfluchtmöglichkeit" (emergency exit): follow the short visible trail down from a notch, do a 60m rap (double ropes) from good anchor. Cross over to the hiking trail from there.

Submitted by: pro_alien on 2007-06-18
Views: 1128
Route ID: 86558

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Alpsteinclimb on 2009-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Schafbergkante

Great ridge climb with a superb view. Definitely recommended.

Added: 2009-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: pro_alien on 2007-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars climbing with a sheepish soundtrack - bah bah !

The name "Schafberg" (sheep mountain) is there for a reason...

Despite the easyish grade, this route should not be underestimated - some route finding skills required. We passed on the second and third pitches of the harder alternative, as the second one starts out with a dicey traverse, and the third one is a bit loose.

Added: 2007-06-18