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Routes : Europe : Wales : Anglesey : Introduction to Anglesey

Introduction to Anglesey

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About Introduction to Anglesey:

To any British climber, Anglesey means one thing...GOGARTH!!! Gogarth is really the only major crag on Anglesey, but its many cliffs are so different in character to one another that it seems the climbing is endless. Of the over 500 routes, only 50 or so are below Extreme, so it is not the area for beginners, even "experts" have come to grief here. Tides at Gogarth play an important part on some of the cliffs, as do rough seas. The rock is quartzite, not too common in Britain, and it always seems to have huge holds, even on E5s, but it tends to get slick, so bring your chalk. Protection is usually either very good, or non-existent, and most of the classic lines are very clean, and if not, the moss scrapes off easily. Best in the summer, when everyone else is in the mountains, and the weather is predictable, and it is often dry here when Snowdonia is rainy. The routes are often multi-pitch, and your second had better be good since the rock almost always overhangs...many epics have occured when the second is stuck swinging oout in space with no prussiks or ascenders. There are nesting restrictions in some areas, but they are few, and present in only a small area of climbable rock. The crags can be reached from many directions, but the South Stack car park is probably the best since it has a cafe, and your car is less likely to be vandalized in the busy parking area.

Nearest town or city: Anglesey
Directions: Enter Holyhead by road, or boat from Ireland, and take the small road west out of town and signposted to South Stack. After about three miles you will reach the car park, and there will be some cliffs to the south, and Gogarth and Wen Zawn up the trail to the north.
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Quantity of Climbs: Lifetime