Access and Restrictions
About Access and Restrictions:
Most of the slate climbing in Wales is situated around Llanberis, but since there are many slate quarries in North Wales, many more areas may be developed in the future. To those who have never climbed slate before, don't miss out - give it a try! With sticky rubber, climbers can at least get friction on the slate. Bolts are also accepted, and the well protected routes have become instant classics. There are also many unprotected climbs on slate, these should be treated with respect, and some are very hard.
The quarries themselves are not that scenic, but they do offer a contrast from the surrounding mountains. The big bonus is that they dry almost instantly, which in North Wales is the most important factor for climbing on any crag. Also, for those who hate the long approaches, you will be happy with the one minute approach hikes to the lower quarries.
There are really no worthwhile routes below VS here, E1 seems to be the starting grade in most of the areas, with most of the routes trending toward E4 or E5. There are a handful of E7s and even an E8 or two for the real hardman. The routes can be dangerous, I would advise taking a full set of RPs or HBs, and double ropes are advised, as there are very sharp edges.
Access is sometimes a problem since the areas at the bottom of the quarries are often occupied by hordes of tourists who are not aware of the danger of falling rocks. Climbing above roads and footpaths is banned! Not a real problem since the size of the quarries makes this easier to accept.
|Nearest town or city:||Dinorwic Slate|
|Directions:||Please park in the car park, this is a sensitive issue, and access may be limited or denied if the rules are not followed. From Llanberis, you can see the quarries across the lake, take the bridge across the narrows of Llyn Padarn and turn left to park at the train station. This is the only allowable parking area for the quarries, please do not park elsewhere.|
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Lifetime|