Introduction to South Pembroke
About Introduction to South Pembroke:
This area is the best introduction to sea-cliff climbing in Britain. About half of the cliffs are tidal, but unless a heavy sea is runnung, there are very few areas that are liable to put you in a serious situation. There are a few cliffs with no easy way out, but they will be obvious to the visitor. Nearly all of the rock is good enough to climb and ptotect safely, but many of the climbs, even the VSs, are very steep and could require self-rescue techniques in the event of a fall. Most of the limestone has great friction, and wears through soft rubber at a fast rate, often old boots are perfectly adequate. The army owns a lot of the coastline, and use it occasionaly, but it is rarely a problem since there are so many areas to climb in. Also, a rappell rope is well worth bringing, as is a towel to protect it from the sharp edges at the top.
A good selection of gear is necessary, and large nuts are particularly useful, along with medium to large cams. There are some cliffs with strict bird restrictions, please observe these rules so that access to the cliffs can be continued. There are routes here for everyone, with classics in every grade, with well over 1,000 routes total in the region. To ease access to the areas, there are four different places to park, see below for directions to the parking areas, which will be referred to in the area descriptions.
|Nearest town or city:||Pembroke|
|Directions:||LYDSTEP -- From Tenby, take the A4139 southwest through Penally and into Lydstep, then go another 100 yardsast Lydstep Home Farm and turn left at West Lodge. This will take you down a lane with a white gate and after another third of a mile to the car park up on the headland.
STACKPOLE -- From Pembroke, take the B4319 Castlemartin Road leading south, and after three miles pass through St. Petrox. At the bottom of the hill, turn left to Freshwater East and Stackpole. Pass through Stackpole and turn left at the signpost to Stackpole Quay and the car park.
ST. GOVAN'S HEAD -- From Pembroke, take the B4319 Castlemartin Road leading south, and after four miles take the left fork to Bosherton, go through the village, with a campsite opposite the church, and continue on to the headland through the firing range. Park at the St. Govan's car park on the Trevallen Downs.
STACK ROCKS -- From Pembroke, take the B4319 Castlemartin Road heading south, but instead of forking left to Bosherton, follow the road right for 2.3 miles to a left turn just past Merrion. A two mile drive down this road will take you to the car park at the Elegug Stacks.
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Lifetime|