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Paper Chase - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
Micro cams to #3 doubles from .4-#2, good set of nuts in the med to large range, there are a few bolts as well
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


4 pitches. 1st pitch same as 3 roofs, second pitch ascends right faceing slab with 2 bolts to the roof than treverses out right for 10m with great hands to another easier slab to belay station, 3rd pitch climbs easly over good rock and some loose stuff (you can climb anywhere on this pitch) up to a tree and great belay ledge, 4th pitch climbs the waves of rock following a good water runnel that sucks up cams and nuts with the crux being short with good climbing, easy climbing to top out.

Descent Options:

Rap route, Rap Sea of Dreams

Submitted by: tonydevo on 2004-01-04
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 1716
Route ID: 46584

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route

This is a fine route, although with all the talk about it I expected more, the pro is very good, dont bother bringing rps, the crux takes great small to med cams and nuts, on the 3rd pitch you can climb almost anywhere and I had trouble finding 10a climbing on it and didnt think it was runout but some might. The crux although diffcult was short lived and very well protected, I did the frist pitch of Cure for Aid to try to make a more sustained day. Of note I didnt find the crux to be 11a more of a 10d. As well we went up to the upper tear of guides rock to do a single pitch 10b gear line that was even better than PC

Added: 2009-06-18

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kojo on 2006-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wicked

fun and with good pro. The exposure is wild.

Added: 2007-06-07

Onsight Onsight ascent by: tonydevo on 2005-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Bring some RP's for the crux

Added: 2005-01-09