long and wonderful. A couple of pins helps to save on the pump placing gear. thin finger section is the crux. climb to the roof, then step out right around it. continues to the anchors. USE TWO ROPES TO RAPPEL!! A bit of imagination and some balls and you *might* be able to do it with one 60m rope.
Submitted by: rendog on 2002-08-25
Route ID: 22724
done this route several more times...can clearly rap with a true 70m not walking up the hill, the best way I found to clean it is to have the belayer pull tight the strand in the gear, pulling you to your gear, going to have to pop and release a few cams, but it all works for the competent climber...will be back for more
One of the best single pitch trad pitches I have done (outside of Zion and Moab). Worried that it might be polished, but it was not. You don't need any 4". But you will want small gear for the crux, #1 and #2 C3 for example along with a few key nut placements. Easy up to the chains, then true to grade from there. Once you pullout from the roof which is not too hard, fairly easy again. You cannot clean this route on one rappel. Rap and clean the top. Then re-climb and clean the rest to the roof and then get lowered. Have your belayer past the knot on the way up by securing yourself. The belayer can lower you on one rope by walking up the hill. Other ways to skin this cat I am sure. Bomber route though, really a lot of fun. True 5.10c crux.