Skip to Content

East Ridge - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Skill
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.83/5
  Rock Quality 2.67/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.80/5

Description:

III/IV 5.7 Long ridge climb. Two possible starts, Big Step or Aemmer couloir

Submitted by: tonydevo on 2004-01-16
Views: 883
Route ID: 46668

7 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good day out

I did this route with a buddy that is no longer around, it was a bit of a big step (no pun) for him and he found it really out there because of size, length, not the best conditions and just not his cup of tea. So I basicly took him up the whole thing and got caught on the toe of the glacier in a big lightning storm, we dropped our gear and ran down the taluas, made a bivi and racked out for 6hrs while it passed. We were in boots the entire day which wasnt bad for all the scrambling and climbing, you can literly go anywhere up there until you hit something hard. Lots of fixed gear and good gear on the roped pitchs. Black towers wernt to bad, we didnt go up in the middle of the traverse though, we went further left which cost us time, found the sharks fin easliy and was a good landmark.

Added: 2011-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Paul_W on 1985-12-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Notes on a winter ascent

Ascended E Ridge via long snow couloir to first bivvy below rock towers. 2nd day traversed towers (interminable) to gap below summit pyramid. Rapped 180 ft down S. Face to bivvy in schrund. Morning of 3rd day ran out of water and fuel. Jugged rope on questionable knifeblade to previous high point traversed gap and climbed to summit. Very impressive view from cornice overhanging N. face. Traversed summit and descended broad couloir to the SW to bivvy. 4th day completed circuit of mountain to our camp below N. Face. weather was very good throughout.

Added: 2010-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: socrates on 2009-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Mount Temple East Ridge

Descent climb, quite long. Routefinding required for the black towers. 11 hours round trip. The traverse across the summit glacier is spectacular.

Added: 2010-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 F
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barwatt on 2008-12-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars East ridge

Great variety. Spent the night below the big step, but not directly below in case of rock fall. Would hate to be caught in a storm on it and I have tremendous respect for anyone who climbs it car to car in a day.

Added: 2008-12-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: hans37 on 2008-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A long day

There is a lot of climbing on this route. Near the bottom there is some steep scrambling on really good rock for quite a ways to the big step. We roped up here for 3 pitches.

After this we short roped the traverse that leads to the exit gully. This part was loose with really soft snow - we kept punching through.

It seemed pretty obvious which was the correct gully. Be careful as it is really loose and it is easy to send rocks down on your partner. I wouldn't want to be behind another group here.

Bring an ice axe and crampons for the summit glacier, and a small rack. We had 7 nuts and cams from 0.5 to 3, and this was plenty. The descent is mind numbingly long - I can't imagine why anyone would scramble up there.

Be prepared for a long day. It took us 13 hours car to car, although this included a long nap on the way down. We passed a group near the bottom and never saw them again, although their car was still at the pullout when we got back. I suspect that they either spent the night out, or climbed/descended in the dark.

Added: 2008-07-24

... Read all 7 ascent notes