Good rock... an excellent start to the upper third of the Kain route and the Perrin variation.
The first 4 pitches are easy but runout slabs of excellent rock.Bolt stations. The crux is the obvious corner, belay at the base at 2 bolts, 45m gets you to the next bolt station. Stemming and a few thin face moves to start lead to easier climbing in the groove. Protection is solid with cams and wires. The "Trough" is easy but loose. Bolt stations. Traverse left to Kain route or climb to the Kain rap station and join from there. Expect 10-15 hours car to car for your first time. Rappel descent.
Submitted by: tonydevo on 2005-08-16
Route ID: 38542
Very memorable climb. Got lost on hike in, had lots of rockfall from party above, got caught in lighting/rain storm on retreat, and managed to get off route on final rappels. Wouldn't trade that experience for anything!
This is about 15 pitches, several are fast, and several are slow. The Gmoser Route is an Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route. We had to set our own stations early on this route, including pitons once. There is a fun chimney-crack early, about the 4th pitch. I got totally pumped on this one. Then we faced some careful route finding. We ended off route in a gully and had some serious rock fall whiz (you know the noise) by my head and legs. Keep moving left and stay out of the gullies. It eventually joins back into the Kain route. Once you are up to the headwall, there is another great variation pitch into the 5.9 area.
Did this climb in early season and wet conditions with a bit of rain and snow, made for a alpine feel, stopped on ridge 20 feet from summit because of snowy conditions, good crux pitch, 5.8 climbers may find it a bit of a struggle, because of conditons we rapped the route and left a few pin and nut stations. The walk in is 3hrs, the route is long but with the majority of it being easy climbing and route finding. Good veiws of North face of Edith to drive the fear in.