a standard rack will to 4" doubles of 2-3" will help, if confident at the grade you can lighten it up a bit
This route is a sport/trad protected route, it is given 3 stars in the book however only the last pitch is good at 1.5 stars. THe rest of the route is contrived and over bolted in most places, the rock is flaky and for the most part the climbing is not intresting, it is a long route for one good pitch, and the 10a pitch is more like an easy 5.9 where as the last pitch is closer to 10a. This route is in the eastren gully of Mt Cory more or less starting below the Zebra
Rap the route, watch for rockfall when pulling the ropes
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2008-06-15
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 94224
A bite rough for my first climb of the year & first time to the top of a multi-pitch route. Lots of bolts and only needed the rack for 2 pitches, can rap route off of rap rings with double ropes. Scenery is wicked.
This route is a very strange route, for the most part it is a long sport climb with lots of gear placements and not a lot of climbing, for a few of the pitchs they only have a couple of moves at the stated grade with the rest almost being scrambleing on polished rock with sections of flaky rock, there are only 2 pitchs that you really need gear on and only the last pitch is any good. It is a good pitch but an awful long way to go for that.
This is not a 3 star route as stated on the topo, it is a good route for getting easy miles in with the climbing never being despret but than the last pitch is a real climb for 30m, very out of charcter from the rest of the route. If there is any rockfall it carries down the entire climb and almost dont recomend it for that reason.