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Nemesis - WI6

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Ice
PG13
4
Genrealy good ice screws
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The grade 6 climb that everyone knows, when first climbed free one of the hardest in the world, still diffcult and varies from year to year, most times climbed in 4 pitchs but has been done in 2 with 70m ropes, crux is reported on the 3rd pitch but I have found that the 2nd pitch is more taxing with not as good gear and very steep with funky bits, thrid pitch has many roofs and some chimneys

Descent Options:

Rap, there are bolts at half way ledge

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-03-17
Views: 439
Route ID: 98275

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty WI6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wicked hard route

This route is amazing, one of my hardest and most sustained yet, I lead both pitch 2 at 55m WI6 and pitch 3 at WI6 in which I was burnt afterwards. I have found that pitch 2 is the crux in witch it is very taxing with few good rests and some gear hard to get with some very funky ice. Pitch 3 has some very steep and overhanging sections however on the whole it is mainly fat with the odd thin section.

I have found that for this route you really need to bring a good amount of screws if you are starting in the WI 6 range

Added: 2009-03-17