The grade 6 climb that everyone knows, when first climbed free one of the hardest in the world, still diffcult and varies from year to year, most times climbed in 4 pitchs but has been done in 2 with 70m ropes, crux is reported on the 3rd pitch but I have found that the 2nd pitch is more taxing with not as good gear and very steep with funky bits, thrid pitch has many roofs and some chimneys
Rap, there are bolts at half way ledge
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-03-17
Route ID: 98275
This route is amazing, one of my hardest and most sustained yet, I lead both pitch 2 at 55m WI6 and pitch 3 at WI6 in which I was burnt afterwards. I have found that pitch 2 is the crux in witch it is very taxing with few good rests and some gear hard to get with some very funky ice. Pitch 3 has some very steep and overhanging sections however on the whole it is mainly fat with the odd thin section.
I have found that for this route you really need to bring a good amount of screws if you are starting in the WI 6 range