the route is said to be chossy but by the rockies standards, its just another walk in the park.If anything, this route is worth doing for the views the valley of the 10 peaks. the last pitch is on the best Quartzite i have climbed other then at the crag.
descend via the scree gully ( fun scree skiing ! ).
Submitted by: Frigon on 2009-06-12
Route ID: 100216
Climbed it on a nice September day before the snow flew the next day! Very stoked to get this done as my first trad multi-pitch. Rock quality is pretty poor (apparently it's "good" by Rockies standards), so be very careful about not knocking cobbles and loose blocks down on to the party below you. Expect the route description in your topo to be vague at best, but you will see several pitons along the way to remind you you're on route. Pitch 3 is a little tricky. Be conscious of the long 55 metre plus pitches; be sure to find a good belay location before you go too far!
The last pitch is great, and rewarding with some good rock, finally! The descent is not that pleasant, as it's not very boot skiable; more just loose sliding rocks. This route took us 11 hours car-to-car, so be prepared for a long day.
With Shaun P. Looking for an easy day out, this is a pleasant enough route. Quite retrofitted with stations and protection bolts. The last pitch has been left alone though and is fun for sure. Started raining when I led that pitch, as always quartzite can be slick when wet.
We did this in about 7 pitchs or so with the last being an awsom climb. We started at the lowest part of the peak just as it shows in the picture but I think the proper start is further left around the obouivious prow and is a bit more direct to the large corner 3 pitchs up.
We did one engageing traverseing pitch from a 2 pin station the led into the large corner to a 2 bolt semi hanging belay with 3 protection bolts on the 4th pitch in which there is good gear to the left of the 3rd bolt.
Rather than trying to follow the line in the book climb where you want, you can make it as sporting or as easy as you want but do watch out for rotten rock, thats the only thing that will slow you down, I think it took us 5hrs to climb the route. As well when desending once above the gully try to head further along the ridge to pick up a trail which will join the gully about 2/3 of the way down and you can avoid drity loose rock and just get the scree.