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Riel Rebellion - 5.10a

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Route sequence (left to right): 2
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Rock (Sport)
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While this is a project it is climbable you just need to go around the project area via Goose pitch 6. Take left exit which is great climbing and much safer then the death right exit. Yes death! Am I the only one on the planet that sees that expanding flake coming off. I'm never wrong on these things. Bearer of bad tidings , angel of death call me what you will I'm just fucking telling you! Approach: go to white rock at the end of the field on the hill. Head down bike trail 60 meters and join game trail breaking off right. The rest will be quite clear. Timed the walk today 9 minutes 15 seconds. Since most you pussies are not In as good as shape as me add 45 seconds. If you take a #3, #4, #5 wire, .25, .50 and # 1 BD cam you can pretty much protect any alternative pitch on Goose. Try the "Riel Rebellion" 510.a same approach as Gooseberry on Tunnel but starts between Tonka and Gooseberry. All sport. Shares the same belay ledge as Gooseberry on the second pitch. Goes six complete sport pitches although pitch 5 is the "Taste of Skaha" alternative sport pitch has bailed on the goose and is now part of the Riel Rebbellion. A local guide added 12 protection bolts to Goose not including pitch 3 which has been turned into a full on 5.8 sport pitch with at least 8 -10 bolts added for that pitch alone. ( Sorry Wade, now you will have to go somewhere else if you want to break your femur). The second last pitch (6) of "Rebellion" is not done yet and will go at a bit harder I think. Take the Goose pitch 6 for now. One #3 rock will cover your butt on this pitch if you take the left exit which ends right at the Tonka/Riel belay. Riel Rebellion Pitch 1 - 5.8 -13 draws / 30 meters Betta: the first crux is the steep little wall 2/3rds the way up. There is a huge number of jugs that are hidden out of sight. If your 6.2 you'll get to them easy. The delicate footwork ahead your gunna find interesting. It might be 5.9. Go in low just to the anchor. Pitch 2 - 5.8- 11 draws / 26 meters This puppy is gunna have you doing something you wouldn't normally do in the Rockies. Grab the horn it's bomber, under cling to buckets. Start with the right foot at the next crux ( which is the steep wall to get you back on the coral/chert) and swing your left up. Way easier. Pitch 3 - 5.8 - 10 draws / 40 meters This still heads up left at the momment then back right on the newly bolted original goose pitch. Useing extendible draws for the first 3 or 4 bolts will greatly reduce rope drag. A direct start has been drilled but won't be bolted till a good cleaning session has been undertaken. Give it a week or so. Direct start goes at 5.9. Pitch 4 - 5.10a - 7 draws / 23 meters The real key to this pitch is the layback at the crux 4/5th's the way up. Bump up the right foot onto the wall to reach really good holds. Solid 10.a. Option is to do the 5.6 Goose pitch 8 meters to the left. Pitch 5 - 5.8 - 10 draws/ 40 meters The alternative pitch 5 to goose has now joined the Rebellion. Best 5.8 pitch in the Bow Valley. Follow the bolt line more or less. Your gunna love this puppy. Pitch 6 - Project: while this pitch is still under construction use the 5.5 alternative going up the goose. While all the guidebooks say to head right you should go left at the bolt half way up. There is a expanding flake on that right exit the size of a large dinner table that is going to come off one of these days. The reason I bolted the left exit. If your the one who pulls it off you will die there. Belayer might live to tell the story but maybe not. Pitch 7 - 5.10c - ( down grade this pitch you coffee sucking do nothings) This is the real jewel in the crown. Certainly the best pitch in the Tonka/Goose hood. Don't get suckered by bolt 4 you can clip it after you trend right and get your feet back under you. the bolt had to go there because it was the best rock in the hood. The crux is this under cling. The trick is to get your feet out east as far as possible reduce the underling to the first knuckle as your gunna need the reach. Let go of the cling and pop up grabbing a semi jug with the left. You'll have enough friction to grab the edge of the block. Powerful layback on good holds. There is a crack behind the block. You can clip before or after you find this. Keep going to top. Pass the chains to bolt station 5 meters higher. You can choose to do the 5.7 exit on Goose if your not up to the task. Might want to drag a 3 Camelot for the move to the bolt on that option. _________________________ Homeless mountain guide (refurbished) living in the alleys of Banff.

Descent Options:

Exit Via Tonka to the left or finish via Gooseberry

Submitted by: mikebarter387 on 2013-07-01
Last Modified: 2013-07-16
Views: 995
Route ID: 114106