Pitch 1: Loose choss pile. More of an approch pitch than anything (5.5)
Pitch 2: Fun pitch up a cool corner. A little bit loose (5.6)
Pitch 3: Solid, textured rock. A little bit run out. (5.6)
Pitch 4: Easy climbing in textured slab (5.5)
Pitch 5: Easy slab, a little smooth and a little run out, especially at the top. (5.5)
If rappelling route make sure you know how to rap with a rope catch. There is lots of stuff for it to get tangled on, and it is often windy.
Walk off - it takes less than 25 minutes.
Submitted by: ihategrigris on 2006-04-25
Last Modified: 2011-07-05
Route ID: 36826
Not a bad route. My partner went right by the first belay station (unintentionally) so we did it in 4 pitches. The second pitch (by the book) was the most interesting due to a nice corner. The rappel takes a slightly different route as it goes straight down. The last rappel station is under an overhanging roof so you'll have to trust that it's there.
This route has been bolted into submission, very small rack needed, mabey a 2,1,.75.5 and a few nuts, you can get away with less. can easly link pitchs 1,2 and 3,4. You can find alot better routes on this cliff than this one.
The day was warm and sunny, so we wore shorts and T-shirts. Andrew led this. He complained about the run-out, but the waves of rock seemed to localize the climbing to just a small section at a time. There's a "steep traverse left" on the third pitch. It's under an overhang, and the space in there seemed dark and gloomy and forbidding. I love the grey-waves of rock on this little mountain. The rock has lots of texture, and you can expect a lot of rope drag. But we used my new "Maxim Apex" rope, which cut down the rope-drag.