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Fadeout - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
1
nut or microcam + 5 bolts
108
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Route runs alongside a prominent rightward facing, rightward slanting sidewall. There is a long runout section along easier terrain to the first bolt in the sidewall; climber may wish to place a nut or microcam to protect from a fall in the steeper section just below the first bolt. Good quality, sharp limestone with great grip, which helps for all the smearing required (prominent footholds are harder to come by). When the sidewall ends, traverse right toward the anchor, which is shared with Freeze Frame.

Submitted by: mfuhrer on 2013-09-01
Views: 223
Route ID: 114373

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mfuhrer on 2013-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Trust your feet

Lots of smearing on excellent quality limestone. When the sidewall begins, approach the first bolt from directly below, rather than alongside the sidewall (placed a cam here for extra pro). Continue along the sidewall to the second bolt. A slight bulge just above the second bolt felt like the crux; high-stepped on top of the sidewall and pulled up to get over the bulge, and then stepped back down onto the slabs above the bulge. Use a series of decent handholds while smearing across the top traverse (another slight bulge here is the second crux). If lead climber decides to clean the route on a 60m rope, make sure belayer knots the rope-end as 60m is not sufficient to reach ground (leader will end up on easier terrain at the start of the route from which a walk-off is possible). Otherwise leader can be lowered down the shorter Freeze Frame route.

Added: 2013-09-01