Bottleneck is a major variation to chockstone corner but with Direct and Direct Direct it is a different route. Direct gives you a easy 5.10 pitch and then 5.6 to join up to the original route, some good pitches with good difficult climbing mixed with loose and dirty rock and runouts give you the proper Yam climb
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2006-10-14
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Route ID: 80653
Pleasantly surprised. Way better than Chockstone Direct in my opinion. The first pitch has several belay options, but I ran it to the top which required us to simul climb a couple of meters. It was much more sustained that the Chockstone Direct version. Fairly intricate climbing, quite fun, picked up tons of brand new gear? and cleaned a lot of crap out of this route. More biners and slings to add to the huge collection from Yam. The 4th pitch had a traverse on some bad rock, even by Yams standards. Beta could have been written a lot better on that one, but I had no issues with it. The last two pitches were quite fun chimneys for the grade. Not much real chimney action, but the corner out right on pitch 6 took some careful thought to access as the chimney work up to that was a bit run out. Super day with Adrienne, she did a fantastic job on her biggest trad experience yet.
this was a good route but with out the 5.10 pitch I think that it would be a litle let down, the climbing above is closer to 5.9 than 5.8. the 5.10 is very well protected however the frist chimney pitch is ran out about 25+ft above a large ledge and the 5.8 corner above is very sustained and I would say 5.9.