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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : Bottleneck Direct Direct

Bottleneck Direct Direct - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 61
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
G. Homer & I. Heyes, 1970
Rock (Trad)
PG13
2
Set of wires, micros to #5 cam doubles from .5-3
240
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

An older pitch considered the classic hard wide crack on Yam. This follows a finger to fist crack up to a step section with good rest to a steep awkward offwidth that continues till a very tight squeeze chimney that continues to the top of the pitch. Second short pitch climbs up an easy crack under a roof to the top belay of pitch two of bottleneck

Descent Options:

Keep going to top of cliff on many routes. Rap route down on Chockstone corner

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-19
Last Modified: 2013-09-06
Views: 708
Route ID: 114329

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Burly

This pitch is one of the Kallen 34, the rock is for the most part very solid and the lower half of the pitch takes great gear. The climbing in the lower part has good feet and hands and crack, we started below the pitch following the crack towards Bottleneck Direct and than traversed over, Decide when ever you want to when your there, once headed up Direct Direct pro and climbing was good, once up to the offwidth there where a few slung chockstones but none were ideal. My partner found the crux at this point trying to get into the crack. Myself as a thicker guy and not big on crack I was able to stand up and steam using climbers right wall quite a bit on good holds. Past that there was a poor pin but better than nothing and than the squeeze chimney which I basicly had to climb on the outside where as my partner was able to stay on the inside with poor pro after this. Not sure if a huge peice like a #6 or bigbro would do anything as I dont have one but could mitagate the small runout however you would than have to drag it everywhere as well.
Gear anchor at top

Added: 2013-08-19