Did Gargoyle (5.10a to the left) and Dicks Route after losing out on Kahl...only 2 other parties ahead of us too! Had already done Smeagol. Gargoyle's 2nd pitch and Dick's 3rd pitch were both nice pitches. The rest of both routes were not worth much. A few hard to see pitons and a chockstone help you protect that 3rd pitch. I had a 70m rope and combined the chimney section atop a piton rappel station with the last pitch bypassing a bolted station. Made for a nice sustained pitch. Some cool moves towards the end as you move right into the easy finish ramp. With Shaun P.
A good route however it is polished, not 5.7 and the books prove that as well, anyone stateing that it is is trying to boost there ego. A high end 5.9 with some great exposed climbing, out of the 4 climbs that start in this area I found this one to be the most sustained and techincal, the upper pitch was wet and had trouble protecting, would have like a second #4 or a #5