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Directissima - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 47
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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H. Kahl, H. Gmoser & L. Grillmair, September 1957
Rock
G
9
fair sized rack. Many fixed pitons
1066
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.80/5
  Rock Quality 2.80/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

9 pitch 5.8(+) that climbs directly to the summit of Yamnuska. Expect tough sustained climbing for the first half followed by more relaxed climbing above. Loose rock, challenging route finding. Buy the guidebook at www.rmbooks.com.

Submitted by: admin on 2003-03-01
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 2147
Route ID: 1506

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: climbwest on 2009-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hard 9th pitch!

A really fun and challenging route. Very enjoyable...even the 5h pitch traverse wasn't as bad as expected. Only thing with the route is the 9th pitch chockstone...horrible. Whoever rated it 5.8 is out of their mind! I wasn't leading that pitch and was glad of it. Very slick, overhung, and awkward not to mention sketchy pro....oh and did I mention it started raining by the 5th pitch!

Added: 2009-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2006-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Directissima

Another great outing with Lynette...the chockstone on pitch 9 is a lot of fun....the traverse on pitch 5 is not....but after doing Forbidden Corner, no complaints about non protected traverses on Direttissima

Added: 2008-07-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Happywhale52 on 2008-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Direttisima, Yamnuska

second try for this route. hard classic 5.8+. 1st ,2nd, 5th, 9th has tough climb. really enjoyed it except polished sleek rock on last pitch. last two pitch is in shade, can be really cold even on sunny day, don't forget belay jucket!

Added: 2008-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2008-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars 2 star route

I enjoyed it but was expecting more, the last pitch really wrecks the rest of the route, the next time I do it I'll try Sufftee or something, but after about 180 pitchs on Yam I went to the summit so it was a good day

Added: 2008-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lix on 2006-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Quite direct

Last pitch felt f-ing hard and slick. Have never looked at a topo and route decription so many times on a climb. I'm sure people climb this and other big limestone trad routes with single ropes, and I bet it sucks.

Added: 2007-03-03

... Read all 10 ascent notes