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Dreambed - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 80
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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T. Mooney, R. Akitt & S. Morrison, July 1994
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
8
Bolts and some gear
820
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

This good climb has become one of the more popular harder climbs. Although not as sustained as CMC Wall, the crux is a little harder. Protection is mainly by bolts but a standard rack including nuts, TCU's, and Friends 1.5 to 3 is required. Take about 15 runners (quickdraws and long slings). All belays are bolted. The rock quality of each pitch is phenomenal, a definite must climb.

Descent Options:

Hike down the backside of Yam

Submitted by: dropkicked on 2008-10-01
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1176
Route ID: 96178

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Dr. Love....

needs a new partner. He did everything short of haul my rear up this route (and he tried that once!). The old goat was feeling wormy to say the least. Lack of meds, legal and illegal. I see he did pre-empt the lambasting I was going to give him on getting psyched out on the start of pitch 4 so I will lay off. Like the Dr. said, soft for sure, all the pitches maybe a whole grade off. The crux might even be on the 5.10c vs the 10d's or 11b, but then if I were leading pitch 2, I probably would have made a fine aid climber that day. Several pretty cool movements on decent rock. The arete out right move on pitch 2, moves underneath the roof of pitch 4 and the beautiful, but physical, finger lock on pitch 6. As the Dr. stated, placing a cam here will interfer with the hold. First and last pitches are cute 5.9 leads for the belay slave. (combine the last two pitches for sure).

Added: 2009-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Meh

This is an ok route that I found was soft for the grade, I thought it was closer to 11a rather than b. I did this route with the Old Goat Man in which beyond his senility did well. This route is very low stress but lacks that certin Yam style climbing that you are looking for. There is no real point on this route that I thought there was any question of climbing aside from stepping off the belay on the 4th pitch just off the climbing line in which the OGM was able to set me stright. I never placed any micro cams on the 6th pitch because they would have taken away from the finger lock or you would be resting on it as well.

I found that a single set will do you fine on this route however my partner thinks you can get away without the #3. I found that it was nice to have but you could easly get away without bringing it. I did not find this route as engaging as I thought and was a bit disappointed with it.

We just climbed Girls Lie on EEOR a few days before and I found that route a much better route if your looking for safe clean fun that this route sells.

Added: 2009-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dropkicked on 2008-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun morning out!

Great climbing! The crux pitch is fairly sustained with only a couple of good stemming rests. Beware of a flash pump on a hot day! D= All other pitches are also memorable and overall the route has some of the best rock quality I have seen on Yam.

Added: 2008-10-01