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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : East End Boys

East End Boys - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 91
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
S. DeMaio & B. Betts, June 1986
Rock (Trad)
Single set of nuts, double rack micros to #4, lots of draws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This is a fine climb that when first put up was quite a feat with small sections of aid, poor rock and poor pro. It was retro'd in 1997 and now is a great climb going free at a very easy 5.12a. The first pitch and part of the second climbs Yellow Edge than breaks left up a steep crack on mainly bolts to a hanging belay, once there the '.12a' crux is right off the belay with a couple of new self drives and some older 1/4" bolts, after that the pitches start falling away at a mid 5.11 with great gear and sustained climbing. There is the odd section of loose rock but on a whole very good climbing, of note the final moves up to the belay top of pitch 4 are quite difficult.

Descent Options:

Walk down east side, rapping would require a lot of back clipping above pitch 3

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-07-16
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1532
Route ID: 53637

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

This is a very fine route on the upper end of the scale with great powerful climbing and good gear. Of note I have found the crux on cmc harder that the crux on this route with this route being more sustained with much better gear. The climbing on this route is mainly on the mid 11 range and the crux pitch has very close bolts off the belay with what I found the most diffcult part being pulling to the 5th belay.

Added: 2009-06-20