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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : False Promise

False Promise - 5.7

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
A. Derbyshire & M. Toft, 1981
Rock (Trad)
Nuts, cams up to #4, pins
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


A climb that had high hopes but found poor rock and sought out lines of weakness rather that good climbing because of the poor rock and ethics at the time. The 1st pitch climbs a interesting corner with suspect rock, loose at the start, better in the middle and loose blocks at the top. 2nd steps around the rib to the left on loose rock than climbs a steep wall with loose rock and questionable pro for the short lived crux following a shallow crack and groove that leads to a pedestal that you should stay to the left of it to the base of a crack although climbing to the pedestal will still lead to a climbable groove above. At the base of the pedestal there is a fixed pin (2011) and wide gear needed for belay. 3rd pitch follows the wide crack up, if starting at the pedestal you can climb up the right side and follow a groove to the base of a corner and some fixed gear, the traverse left is on good rock but with limited pro to a alcove with 2 fixed pins (2011) that should be backed up. The traverse around the rib to the left and remainder of the climb follows broken ground to the top.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the west

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-04
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 707
Route ID: 108599

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Blah

Route is nothing special and not really worth the approach up to yam although it is still there and if you enjoy climbing on loose rock it is a good short route for that. There is a fair share of loose rock although you can still find solid stuff and ok pro.

Added: 2011-05-04