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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : Forbidden Way

Forbidden Way - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 78
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
6
Single set of nuts and cams to #4 double 1 and 2 nice
900
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This is a more direct or sustained way up the corner in which it is the combination of 2 or 3 routes to make it a 10c-11a climb. There is a fair amount of bolts on the Forbidden Fruit pitches and nice gear and crack climbing on the direct corner pitches as well. This can be a fast climb although the 'sporty' pitches can be contrived some of it is still good.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the east

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-09-10
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 820
Route ID: 101637

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Forbidden Way

Climbed with Dr. Love below. We finished on Forbidden Fruit which is a 5.11a pitch. You have to trend back left on the final pitch to finish on the final Milky Way pitch which is 5.10c. I agree with Mark this is one of the better routes on Yam for interesting and sustained climbing. That last crux pitch is a little loose here and there, but some fun moves. Mark led it in style, albeit I did have time for a nap at the belay. That means I had that traverse pitch below...the C3 he references was the yellow with only one side engaged. It would not have held a fall in my estimation. The traverse is run out and is a bit scary in that you can't be 100% you are going the right direction. I found a toe rail low and then climbed back up left to the ledge and bolt. I pulled the first 5.10c which I thought was a pretty neat pitch except for being short, the deck opp and my cold fingers on a Sept morning. That was my 2nd time leading that great Forbidden Corner up high. That is good stuff for Yam. Took a single rack, could of used a few more pieces of gear for that pitch. Everything else had tons of fixed gear for the most part.

Added: 2009-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route

This is a nice route for climbing in the 5.9-11a range and is a good steping stone route as well. This route just like Forbidden Corner is scared from the low angle scrambley traverse that takes away from the climb. The first 10c pitch has a couple of contrived moves but is a nice way to get to the corner. The two direct corner pitchs above have some great climbing with the second the best. The traversing 2nd last pitch has some great climbing with moderate pro (read micro placement). For the last pitch we did the Forbidden Fruit finish for a very fun 11a pitch although mainly a sport pitch whitch is very fun.

Added: 2009-09-10